Yes hun. Da Hong Pao or "Big Red Robe"

15.09.2023

(大红袍, Da Hong Pao, Big Red Robe, DHP, Dahunpao) is a Chinese tea produced in the northwest of Fujian province, in the Wuyi Mountains. According to its class, it is classified as highly fermented oolong. Da Hong Pao is one of the most famous varieties of Chinese tea, along with such as Puer, Tie Guan Yin, Long Jing. But in terms of the number of legends and myths, the Red Robe is perhaps in first place. According to the historical records of the Tian Xing Si Monastery, in 1385 in the Ming Dynasty (in the year 18 under the motto Hong Wu), student Ding Xian, on his way to take the imperial exams, suffered a heat stroke, and one of the monks of the above-mentioned monastery used tea to cure him. Having successfully passed the exam and received the high position of Zhuang Yuan (which corresponded to a large red robe with images of dragons), wanting to thank the Buddha for the miraculous cure, Ding Xian returned to the monastery, where he presented the Robe to the monk who cured him. But the monk, like a true Buddhist, did not accept such a high gift. Then the official covered the tea bushes with a robe. This is how the name Da Hong Pao appeared:« Big Red robe» .

Tian Xin Si Monastery

Already in 1419, when the monastery received the name Tian Xin Yun Le Chan Si (天心永乐禅寺), Chan Monastery of Heavenly Heart and Eternal Joy, all the tea produced there began to be called “Da Hong Pao”. Soon this tea began to be called ancestor of 10 thousand teas and his fame spread throughout the Celestial Empire. Centuries later, in 1855, the abbot of the monastery gave 36 tea seedlings to Taiwanese student Lin Feng Chi (林凤池) to plant tea in Taiwan. Later, when tea took root and began to be produced, it was named Dong Ding.

There are many different myths regarding the history of the name of this most famous cliff tea. Starting from a story in which the emperor himself takes the place of a student, and ending with... no, you won’t believe it, a story about specially trained little monkeys who climb cliffs in search of tea, and so that they can be seen from afar, they are put on little red robes ( !). Somewhere in the same area of myth-making one comes across stories about virgins picking tea (which, incidentally, was common in ancient times, but now has little relation to reality), and so on. Almost like with pu-erh, which is “buried in the ground.” Truly, the imagination of people who create legends is great.

The Wuyi Mountains, the birthplace of cliff teas, also have their own legend about the origin of the name. In the 25th century BC. Taoist Peng Zu, the great Teacher of the art of Love, lived in China. This legendary character, according to legend, lived 767 years, had 19 wives and 900 concubines. He is even called the progenitor of the Chinese nation. So, Peng Zu, after yet another wrath of the great dragon (in other words, the global flood in its Chinese interpretation), one day came across the mountains in search of refuge. More precisely, he didn’t even come across it himself, but his sons Peng Wu and Peng Yi brought him there. It was from their names that the name “Ui Shan” came from - Wui Mountains.

Morning in Wuyi Shan

The mountains reach a height of 2158 m above sea level, but tea is grown in the hollows between the cliffs, where the height is on average 600 meters, and the climate is not subject to sudden changes. Between the mountains with cliffs formed by weathering, streams flow and fog lies, due to which the humidity is quite high here. The soils are clayey, acidic, very favorable for growing tea. It is thanks to the uniqueness of these soils that we are able to cultivate high-quality cliff teas. Historically, teas from the Wu Mountains are considered the best representatives of the achievements of the Chinese tea industry. The tea bushes growing here are divided into those that grow next to the river - valley ones and those that grow in the mountains - cliff ones.

It is the cliff teas that are of particular value for connoisseurs of high-quality teas with a multifaceted interesting taste and a pronounced character. They are processed using the classic UI technology of fairly strong fermentation and relatively long drying on charcoal, which allows you to maximize the character of the tea. The processing technology of Wuyishan oolongs is of the highest skill. It consists of several stages: weidiao(withering), Zuoqing(shaking alternating with fermentation), Shaqin(short, high-temperature heating), rounyan(twisting), hongbei(warming-baking), Zhubei(final warm-up) and tiao cha(sorting out the finished tea). At the same time, each master technologist has his own little professional secrets, which are his trade secret.

Wuyi cliff tea bushes are tree-like shrubs with rather densely growing branches, the tips of which are directed upward and to the sides; leaves are oval, wide, with slightly pointed tips hanging down, edges curving inward, dark green and glossy; the greenery of the young buds gives off a crimson color and is covered with fluffy delicate fibers. The very “mother bushes” of Da Hong Pao, from which the very tea that cured the official was collected (which, however, is not a fact - see below), grow to the west of the Tian Xin Si monastery. This place is called Jiu Long Ke ("Refuge of the Nine Dragons"). It is irrigated year-round by springs gushing out of the rock. At the time of its discovery in 1941, only 1 stunted Da Hong Pao tree remained there, having eight roots (although information can be found on 6, 4, 3 and 2) with a thickness of 1.5 to 5.5 cm.

Mother bushes of Da Hong Pao in Jiu Long Ke

In addition, near the cliffs of Bei Dou (Northern Bucket) and Ho Yan (Tongues of Flame), in the 60s of the 20th century, old Da Hong Pao trees also grew, from which cuttings were taken and successfully cloned. The descendants of these plants received the name. The development of the Big Red Robe selection continues to this day.

It is widely believed that the main raw materials for DCP are already collected from bushes that were grown from shoots cut from the mother bushes. However, this tea is extremely scarce. Therefore, information about the sale of Da Hong Pao tea, propagated by shoots, to the market is absolutely rightly criticized by many Chinese tea specialists. The same Tie Luohan, Ban Tian Yao, Zhou Gui and other high-grade cliff oolongs are significantly superior in their properties to the Red Robe bushes. However, this does not prevent this tea from being sold for hundreds of thousands of dollars at tea auctions held annually in Hong Kong and Guangzhou.

A little history. In 1974, the great Mao met then US President Nixon at his residence. Following etiquette, the heads of state exchanged expensive gifts. Imagine the surprise of the former Hollywood actor when a bag of four liangs (1 liang = 50 grams) of dubious black weed fell into his hands. On the sidelines, Nixon accused the leader of all Chinese of being stingy. Thank God, the Prime Minister of the People's Republic of China, Zhou Enlai, explained to the American guest that this bag is half the annual harvest of this tea and has, as it was said, “the value of half the country.” In the more capitalist times of China, as recently as 2002, at an auction in Fujian, a restaurant from Guangzhou purchased about 7 liangs of Da Hong Pao tea from the mother bushes for an unimaginable 120 thousand dollars, that is, in terms of kilograms, 1 kg of such tea cost about 600 thousand dollars.

Wuyi Shan Tea Culture Festival

No less curious is the fact known to all local residents that in the backyard of the Tian Xin Si Monastery there is a small tea plot on which “that” real DCP grows, which is much older than these few bushes for tourists. In any case, at present neither the bushes of this oolong nor the shoots from them grow en masse. And the tea that is sold under the name Da Hong Pao is a blend (mixes) from raw materials of various varieties, of which almost 1000 species have already been bred in the Wuyi Mountains (hence such a great variety of Wuyishan teas). Most often, raw materials from and bushes are used for the production of Da Hong Pao.

That’s why tea under the same name can be so different. One manufacturer makes a blend from one raw material, another from another, a third even labels Shui Xian as DCP, and there are quite a few of them. Every year the raw materials change (this depends on a huge number of factors, from weather to which technologist processed it and how it was processed) and, accordingly, the tea itself changes. For the more expensive DaHongPao, higher-grade “Wuyishan” raw materials are used; for cheaper DHP, simpler raw materials are used. By the way, regarding the variability of raw materials, technology, and, accordingly, tea - this applies not only to tea, but also, to one degree or another, to all high-quality Chinese tea as a whole.

Now widespread in the tea market, like other highly fermented Wuyishan oolongs, the leaf color is brown with burgundy and green hues. The aroma is clean, bright and slightly sweet, with a lot of iridescent olfactory associations. Somewhat reminiscent of the aroma of old wine, fried crust of black bread and dried fruits. Like Yunnan pu-erh, DCP can also be stored for several years, not only losing its quality, but, on the contrary, acquiring new shades of taste and impact.

The color of the infusion ranges from dark burgundy, almost black, to amber-red. The taste is thick, rich, with a pronounced and pleasant astringency and a rich spicy aftertaste. After several brews it becomes sweetish, with light fruity notes. Most often, Da Hong Pao gives both a pacifying and tonic effect - a clear mind, pleasant sensations in the body, calm concentration. The action and effect of the Red Robe is quite difficult to describe in words. Like any high-class tea, it acts differently in different situations, harmoniously supporting a person’s current mood.

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(c) Sergey Shevelev, 01/31/2011, especially for moychay.ru. Copying the article without the written permission of the author is prohibited.

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Da Hong Pao is a high-grade, highly fermented oolong. Tea grows in China's Wuyi Mountains and is considered one of the most expensive in the world. The drink is famous for its original taste, aroma and effect.

Legends about the origin of the name Da Hong Pao

Translated from Chinese, Da Hong Pao (Chinese: 大红袍, pinyin dàhóngpáo) means “Big Red Robe.” The origin of the name is shrouded in a lot of myths and legends. We present to your attention some of them:

Legend about a student. In the 14th century, one student went to take exams, but suddenly lost consciousness. The monks prepared tea and healed the young man. Soon the young man took a high position, which required him to wear a wide red robe. In gratitude for his salvation, the young man gave the monk the robe he received. However, the minister refused the gift. Then the dignitary covered the tea bushes with a robe, thanks to which he recovered.
The Legend of the Emperor's Mother. The mother of one of the rulers of the Celestial Empire was seriously ill. Even doctors and healers were powerless in the face of the scourge. Then the monks sent unique tea to the palace. After drinking oolong from the Wuyi Mountains, the woman was completely healed. In gratitude for curing his mother, the emperor ordered the tea bushes to be clothed in bright red fabrics to protect the plant from frost.
Romantic legend about maidens. Da Hong Pao has been collected by forever young Tea Maidens for centuries. Girls do not age because they sleep in a special cave. One of the officials accidentally saw the pickers and was struck by their beauty. The man decided to get married at any cost. He followed the beauties and found their cave. The official was so amazed by the innocence of the girls that from that day he protected them, leading strangers away from the cave.
The Legend of the Monkeys. According to one belief, red robes were worn by specially trained monkeys who collected tea in the highlands. Thanks to their bright clothing, the animals could be monitored from afar.

Only the legend about the student turned out to be true. The legend is confirmed by historical records of 1385 of the Wuyishan Monastery of Tian Xin Yun Le Chan Si" (天心永乐禅寺) - "Chan Monastery of Heavenly Heart and Eternal Joy"

History of Da Hong Pao Tea

The recipe for real Da Hong Pao is more than 6 centuries old. After all, the first mention of a drink made from tea leaves from the Wuyi Mountains dates back to 1385. The original name of oolong sounded like Qi Dan. It is believed that this name was associated with the purple-red color of the buds.

However, the history of tea itself is 300 years older than its official name. Indeed, according to the chronicles, tea was renamed Da Hong Pao only in 1419. Soon the drink began to be called “the ancestor of ten thousand teas” and its fame spread throughout China.

The fame of tea has spread through the centuries. In 1974, the great Mao presented a bag with 200 grams of tea to US President Nixon. Such a gift was considered priceless even in those years.

To date, only 6 tea bushes of this variety have survived in the Wuyi Mountains. The place where they grow is called the “Lair of Nine Dragons.” Each year, 400 grams of tea were collected from the mother bushes, which were immediately transferred to the state storage facility. Part of the reserves was sold at annual tea auctions in Hong Kong and Guangzhou.

In 2006, the collection of oolong in the Dragon's Den was stopped. The remains of rare tea are kept in museums and private collections. Therefore, it is not possible to buy Da Hong Pao these days. The last time tea was sold at auction was in 2006 for half a million dollars.

However, the descendants of the 6 sacred bushes exist in the province to this day. According to a special government decree, almost all oolongs, except four varieties, from the Wuyi Mountains can be sold under the Da Hong Pao brand.

Tea growing areas

The legendary tea is grown in the Wuyi Mountains. For cliff oolongs, the specific location where they grow is extremely important. According to this criterion, Da Hong Pao tea is divided into 3 types:

Zhen Yan Cha ("real cliff tea"). Oolong grows in the gorges of the Wuyi Mountains. Fog often forms in these places. This creates the optimal humidity for oolong. Mountain soil rich in minerals is also optimal for the plant. It is this variety that 100% conveys the taste and effect of true Da Hong Pao. However, gorge oolong is the most expensive.
Ban Shan Cha (“half-cliff tea”). Oolong grows at the foot of the mountains. In terms of taste, the drink is quite close to Wuyishan oolongs. The variety is optimal in terms of cost and quality ratio.
Wai Shan Cha ("tea from the outer mountains"). This tea can grow anywhere in Wuyi. The total length of the territory is more than 75 square meters. km. The land in these places is radically different from the mountains. Wai Shan Cha is a blend of several varieties of tea and is the cheapest of the Da Hong Pao oolongs.

Da Hong Pao tea production technology

Oolong from the Wuyi Mountains is also famous for its complex production technology, which includes several stages:

Collection. The harvest is harvested four times a year. In this case, the leaves are cut off along with the stems.
Drying. Next, the raw materials are laid out and partially dried in the sun. Thus, the leaves release excess moisture and become softer.
Withering. Next, the leaves are laid out on bamboo trays indoors. Thus, the moisture level in the sheet is equalized.
Crushing and fermentation. The raw materials are carefully crushed by hand so that the leaves release juice and oxygen penetrates deep into them. This starts and speeds up fermentation - the fermentation of tea juice. The tea is left in this form for several days.
Roasting. Next, the leaves are heated and fried in cauldrons. During the frying process, fermentation stops and the smell of greenery is removed. As a result, the leaves curl and darken.
Twisting. Next, the leaves are sorted, torn from the stems and twisted lengthwise.
Re-drying. At this stage, the leaves are completely dried.
Sorting and packaging. At the final stage, the leaves are sorted, packaged and sent to shops.

Tea culture in the Wuyi Mountains

The Wuyi Mountains are of particular interest to tourists. After all, the area combines natural beauty with historical and cultural heritage. Tourists are offered hiking, visiting nature reserves, excavations, abandoned monasteries, waterfalls and gorges. The route is not complete without visiting the “Lair of Nine Dragons” with 6 bushes of authentic Da Hong Pao.

However, first of all, the Wuyi region is considered the best place to get acquainted with the Chinese tea tradition. Tea ceremonies, festivals and competitions are regularly held in the region. Along the entire route of Wuyi there are shops selling the legendary oolong.

The Wuyi Tea Culture Festival is held annually in the Wuyi Mountains. The event includes exhibitions and tea tastings, and performances by recognized masters of the tea ceremony. Tea competitions are also quite popular, during which judges taste hundreds of varieties of tea and pronounce a verdict, naming the top three winners.

Taste and aroma

They say that the bright taste and deep aroma of Da Hong Pao cannot be described. After all, they shimmer in hundreds of different shades. Tea masters tried to determine the leading notes:

Aroma- nutty, chocolatey and spicy. Most masters found subtle notes of vanilla, fruit, toasted nuts and freshness in it. Others identified the smell of dried fruit, old wine or toasted crust of black bread.
Taste- soft caramel and tart at the same time. The astringency is light and pleasant, so the drink is not bitter. Oolong also reveals thick notes of caramel, toffee, vanilla and fruit. As the tea cools, it acquires even greater softness and sweetness, and becomes more fruity in taste.
Aftertaste- soft, tender, at the same time sweetish, spicy and refreshing. The tea seems to envelop and leave behind a lasting aftertaste.

Tea connoisseurs claim that with each brewing, the taste and aroma of Da Hong Pao changes dramatically. This creates the feeling that you are drinking a completely new type of tea.

The effect of drinking Da Hong Pao tea

Da Hong Pao tea is also famous for its effect. After all, the drink simultaneously has several opposite effects. A cup of oolong tea works in 3 stages:

Relaxation. Tea calms, relieves emotional stress and fatigue, completely relaxes the body and mind. Pleasant sensations appear in the body, comparable to mild intoxication.
Toning. Further, the drink invigorates, clears thoughts, makes the mind clear and helps to concentrate. A person experiences a state of mild euphoria, inner elation and inspiration.
Bringing to balance. At the third stage, oolong improves mood and gives a feeling of harmony in the soul and body. The Chinese often use Da Hong Pao as a natural antidepressant.

Relaxation while maintaining clarity of mind and intoxication without fog in the head - this is the main effect of Da Hong Pao. No other drink in the world can cause such sensations.

In addition, Da Hong Pao oolong activates the immune system, lowers cholesterol, improves skin and hair condition, destroys free radicals and slows down aging.

Regardless of the variety, Da Hong Pao is many times superior in quality to regular tea.

Da hong pao (translated as “big red robe”) occupies a more than special place among the many varieties of tea. It is classified as “oolong”, the name given to highly fermented tea, which in turn is divided into mainland tea (grows in China) and island tea (from Taiwan). Oolong is also called “black dragon” or turquoise tea.

It is grown in the mountains, where the climate and sunlight create the unique taste of the drink. According to the Chinese classification, “red robe” is located between green and red teas; Europeans identify it as black tea.

Da Hong Pao is grown in the Wuyi Mountains in northwestern Fujian Province. What makes the “red robe” truly unique is the fact that at the moment its plantation consists of only six bushes, from which an annual harvest weighing only 400 g is collected. This amount of drink determines its cost - $ 500,000 for the entire harvest. But money cannot always help a gourmet enjoy tea - the last time it was sold was about ten years ago. Subsequent harvests have been and continue to be transferred to the state storage facility.

What is offered to tourists under the name “da hong pao” is one of the oolongs collected in Wuishan. And even though it is so reminiscent of the original in taste and aroma that even masters are not always able to determine the catch, the fact remains that real da hong pao is now practically inaccessible.

Legend of the name “Big Red Robe”

Da hong pao has a long history, rooted in legends. According to one of them, with his help, the monks of the Tian Xin Si monastery saved the life and healed a student named Ding Xian, who was on his way to take an exam for a position, but fell ill on the way. Thanks to the tea, he was on time for the exam and passed it successfully. In accordance with his position, the newly-minted official was given a red robe, which he in turn brought as a gift to the monks who helped him. According to tradition, they did not accept the gift, so Ding Xian gave it to the tea bushes.

The second legend is slightly similar to the first, only here the mother of the emperor who belonged to the Ming dynasty received healing. Next, the grateful son also gifts the tea bushes with red cloaks.

Finally, the third version of the legend combines the previous two. During the Ming Dynasty, a Fujian University graduate named Yuren Ding Hian goes to Beijing to take an exam. As he passed Mount Wuyi, he suddenly felt severe stomach pain. Luckily, a monk from a nearby monastery happens to be nearby. He brews da hong pao and gives it to the patient to drink. The pain passes and the grateful Ding Hian continues on his way to Beijing, taking with him some miraculous tea. Upon arrival, he learns that the emperor's mother is sick and near death. Ding Hian brews a drink and gives it to the patient to drink, after which she quickly recovers. The joyful emperor sends the tea bushes, in gratitude, red fabrics of the best quality to protect them from the cold, and also assigns a guard of several warriors to the bushes.

As you can see, the legends at least agree on one thing - “big red robe” tea has amazing healing and miraculous properties.

Where is Chinese tea collected and how is it produced?

As mentioned above, currently any oolong grown on the plantations of the Wuyi Mountains is called “red robe”, and this is permitted at the state level by a corresponding decree. Its production can be divided into the following stages:

1) Collection. Occurs in the first two weeks of May, only the first four leaves are harvested.

2) Withering. The collected branches with leaves are allowed to lie in the open air or in a well-ventilated room for several hours. This slightly dries and softens the raw material to facilitate the next phases of production.

3) Crushing and fermentation. The first is done either manually or using special rotating drums. As a result, the leaves give up juice, receiving oxygen in return. All this contributes to the fermentation process, which then takes place.

4) Roasting. One of the know-how of a true master is to sense the moment when to stop fermentation by roasting the tea leaves in a cauldron. The process takes a few minutes.

5) Twisting along.

6) Tearing leaves from branches, blending. The peasants do this throughout the summer.

7) Warming up on coals. The leaves are placed in special baskets, which are suspended over hot coals. The temperature regulator is the layer of ash on the coals, or rather its thickness.

8) Packing.

Effect of Da Hong Pao tea for soul and body, beneficial properties

As a result of the above actions, a truly wonderful drink is obtained that has unique properties. Gourmets who are lucky enough to taste da hong pao talk about the following effects that it produces.

— Tonic. But not like coffee, energy drinks, etc. You just feel a surge of strength and increased endurance.

— Soothing. And there is no contradiction with point 1 - the “red robe” is simply a truly miraculous drink, and its effect depends on the mood and expectations of the one who brews it.

— Clarification of consciousness. You feel a surge of inspiration, fresh thoughts and ideas come to mind. Tibetan monks claim that tea helps to achieve greater effect during meditation.

There is even a special term “da hong pao effect”, which denotes the combined effect of the drink on the mind, consciousness, and state of mind. And what is quite surprising is that when applied to this drink they sometimes write about “tea intoxication.” It’s probably not in vain that the famous Russian rappers Basta and Guf sang the “red robe” in one of their works...

In addition, there is a lot of evidence about the healing properties of da hong pao. Tea normalizes blood pressure, relieves headaches, removes waste and toxins from the body, improves immunity, slows down the aging process, regulates weight, has a beneficial effect on the circulatory system, giving the walls of blood vessels strength and elasticity. In addition, the “red robe” prevents inflammation of the gums and caries, and fights pathogenic microbes in the oral cavity.

How to brew red robe tea correctly

Of course, in order to experience all this to the fullest, it is important to brew the tea correctly. Therefore, let us also dwell on this in a little more detail. There are several recommendations for properly brewing da hong pao.

It is better to use a small teapot and cups. To begin with, as usual, the teapot needs to be heated with boiling water. The water should be soft, ideally spring water. Then tea is poured into the kettle at the rate of 10-15 grams per 200 ml of water, which is poured with boiling water. However, this brewing, which lasts only five seconds, serves to warm up the now cups and get rid of tea dust. After refilling the kettle with water, it is poured over the outside with the first brew from the cups to increase the temperature of the infusion in the kettle, which in turn will give the drink even greater density and richness of taste. We wait again for 7-10 seconds and pour the drink into the chakhai, from where we then pour it into cups through a strainer. The tea can be brewed a maximum of seven times, adding ten seconds to the brewing time each time.

According to the second version, the “red robe” should not be brewed, but boiled, using glassware, which will allow complete control of the cooking process. In this case, the tea leaves must be pre-soaked. The proportions of water and tea when boiling are two parts water and one part tea. An important nuance is that when the first single bubbles, harbingers of boiling, begin to appear when the dishes are heated, you need to drain a few cups of water and add fresh water instead. Boil the tea for two minutes, then leave for two minutes.

In addition to the “technological” one, so to speak, the ceremonial component of tea drinking is no less important. The ceremony itself requires special attention. Appliances and accessories should be handled with care. The surrounding atmosphere should breathe comfort and tranquility, communication during tea drinking should be easy and relaxed, the topic of conversation comes by itself. You should drink tea slowly in order to fully experience its aroma and taste.

Taste qualities of tea

The taste of tea is transformed in the process of drinking tea. At first, one feels astringency, richness and density in the taste, which after some time are replaced by sweetness and velvety. In the tartness of da hong pao, some tasters feel the taste of roasted seeds. Some people talk about caramel, vanilla notes, some about fruity undertones. The aroma remains stable - vanilla, sweet, deep. By the way, if you don’t feel this when brewing again, alas, you were sold a not entirely environmentally friendly product, there were some dyes and flavors, and the origin of this product is very doubtful.

Da Hong Pao (大红袍, Big Red Robe) is a traditional Chinese tea grown in the northwestern part of Fujian Province, Wuyi Shan Mountains. Belongs to the class of highly fermented oolongs. Also found with “labeling” is Wuyishan, cliff tea.

Today, “Big Red Robe” is one of the most famous teas in China. He can rightfully be called the emperor of cliff oolongs, a legend of tea. The Da Hong Pao bush is one of the famous four Si Da Min Cong, or “Four Great Fujian Bushes”. This is the most “indigenous inhabitant” of the Wuyishan cliffs.

Once upon a time, bushes grew on rocky massifs in Jiulongke, also called the “Nine Dragons Tract”. However, today those bushes available there are considered to be somewhat different varieties than Da Hong Pao and have nothing in common with them. Such is the paradox, overgrown with legends and rumors.

A "native" bushes are located in a slightly different place, on the same territory. They produce very little raw material and finished tea, and the cost at auctions goes beyond all imaginable and inconceivable amounts. For example, in the 2000s, only 20 gr. Da Hong Pao was sold for almost $40 thousand., which was a record price for tea in general. In general, we can say that today “the real Dahongpao” is only a variant of government gifts in high circles.

This logically leads to the question: what is sold in stores then? We'll talk about this a little later, but for now let's turn a little to history and legends.

History and legends.

“Big Red Robe” is probably the richest tea in legends. Sometimes, out of all the existing legends and myths, from monkeys in red coats to tea maidens, it is quite difficult to determine the authenticity of the origin of tea. Even the Chinese themselves are reluctant to tell a couple of tales about the origin of tea. However, despite this, there is also a most realistic story, which refers to the historical records of the Tian Xing Si Monastery. By the way, it is located exactly in the place where Da Hong Pao bushes first appeared.

So, according to historical records, in 1385, during the reign of the Ming Dynasty, a young student Ding Xian was heading to take the imperial exams. But on the way he suffered a heatstroke. However, one of the monks of the monastery cured him through tea. After successfully passing, having received a red robe with dragons according to the title, the young man returned to the monastery and wanted to thank the monk by handing him his robe. However, he did not accept this high gift, after which Ding Xian left it as a gift to the tea bushes. Actually, this is how this name appeared - "Big Red robe".

It is not possible to make any expert assessment based on this information. Therefore, we can only accept this story as a given. However, we should not forget that Da Hong Pao is first and foremost tea, national pride, an aspect of tradition, and only then a legend.

Da Hong Pao in the modern market.

As we said earlier, Da Hong Pao is not currently available for direct sales. And here we gradually approach the question of what is then on the shelves of tea stores. Generally speaking, the “Big Red Robe” today is nothing more than a blend. In essence, this is a brand regulated by production standards. Yes, it varies, both in quality and ultimately in taste and cost.

If you start to understand, then you can identify a number of conditional categories of this tea. This will help us understand in more detail what is being offered to us. So, all of Da Hong Pao can be divided into the following groups:

Mother bushes. There are 6 of them in total. 3 originals and 3 clones. This tea, as we have already said, is not available to mere mortals. And for non-mere mortals too, by the way.
Zheng Yan Da Hong Pao. In fact, these are the “children” of the mother bushes. The closest tea to the original. Its creator is considered to be citizen Chen Dehua, who, thanks to agamogenesis, bred clones from his native bushes. After that, he began planting them near the protected area of Wishan, called Zheng Yan. This is an area of 72 square meters. km. and only from these places tea has the right to be called Zheng Yang Da Hong Pao. The cost of such tea is quite high, and purchasing it is very problematic, because... Most of the tea is sold at the local market.
"Commercial" Da Hong Pao. Its ancestor is considered to be the same Chen Dehua. For the first time, he created a blend of 3 varieties - Da Hong Pao, Zhou Gui and Shui Xian. This made it possible to satisfy market demand for this tea. If we talk about the high quality of the blend, it includes raw materials grown on the territory of Ban Yan, which borders the reserve.

However, there are often blends on the market that do not include the Big Red Robe. And in general, raw materials of dubious quality and unknown origin can be used. In a word - fake. It is not uncommon for such raw materials to be masked using “strong fire.” And yet today it is possible to find quite successful mixtures of Zhou Gui and Shui Xian, the quality of which will be at a high level. What can I say, there are still a lot of disputes and disagreements on this matter. We can only say with confidence that for higher-class DCPs, more serious raw materials are used, and for simpler DCPs, lower-grade ones are used. This is why he is so different.

The production process of Da Hong Pao.

In general, “Big Red Robe” does not have any significant differences in production compared to other Wuyi teas. However, let's take a closer look at the stages. So:

Collection. It takes place over 2 weeks, at the very beginning of May. Usually 4 leaves and the top bud on the branch are taken. Later they come off.
Withering. On the day of collection, the existing leaves are laid out on the street using litter. The raw materials are dried overnight, after which tea production begins. The task is that the sheet must partially lose moisture and become soft and pliable for further processing.
Rotation. After the leaves are dried to the required condition, they are sent to rotating drums for 12 hours. Due to the supply of warm air (35*C) inside the drum, the leaves are slowly oxidized, and the fermentation process is actively started.
Roasting. After many hours of rotation, the raw materials are sent for frying. It occurs either manually, at high temperatures in boilers, or in special automatic ovens. In both cases, the technologist must “by eye” determine when the roasting needs to be completed.
Wrinkling. One of the most important stages of preparation. Hot leaves are sent either to a special device, which rotates and immediately crushes the raw material, or the master performs the procedure with his hands, in portions on a bamboo tray. The essence of this stage is to allow the juice with essential oils to appear on the surface of the leaf.
. The stage of removing excess moisture from the leaf, as well as “fixing” the aroma on the surface. The leaves laid out on pallets in a thin layer are sent to the oven for a short period of time. The temperature inside is 120-130 degrees. The result is mao cha (raw tea). The finished tea will be obtained only after repeated baking on the coals. High-quality, good tea is subjected to this procedure only a few months later, approximately in August. “Commercial” tea is prepared immediately, without aging.”

Sorting. The stage that brings tea raw materials to the final stage. First, the leaves are separated from the cuttings and then sifted through sieves. They use different hole diameters to separate them into grades. As a result of sorting, the tea loses up to half of its original weight.
Charcoal roasting. Hong Pei. The tea is placed in special baskets and baked over coals for 12 hours. There are a number of nuances and subtleties here that determine the final taste of the finished tea. It will be more floral or baked, deep or light. All this depends on the degree of baking, which the master determines at his own discretion, guided by experience.

After going through all these stages, we get ready-made tea. The technology given above is highly generalized and may have its own nuances and subtleties depending on the raw materials and their blend.

A little organoleptic.

As we said above, Da Hong Pao comes in different forms. Very. Both in appearance and in taste and aroma. It all depends on what type of bushes were used in the preparation. However, despite this, there are a number of generalized organoleptic properties that can characterize this tea.

Aroma. A good Da Hong Pao will be deep and fragrant, shimmering and changing as you drink tea. It has bready-spicy, floral and fruity nuances, depending on the quality and final heating.

Taste. Rich, blooming and lively throughout the brew. Baked, with a bit of light heat, spice and fruit. Leaving into a rolling aftertaste with a sweet and fruity undertone.

By blossom the finished infusion can be either dark peach or red-amber or chestnut, depending on the final heating.

And of course "cliff melody", characteristic only of oolongs from Wuyi. So recognizable and pleasant, unlike anything else. Having heard it just once, it is no longer possible to confuse it with anything else.

How to brew Da Hong Pao.

The pour over method is best for brewing Da Hong Pao. You can get by with the classic Ping Cha (“Tasting Tea”), or if you have expensive, high-quality tea in front of you, use the Gong Fu Cha method using tea pairs. The second option will help you get to know the tea to a greater extent, enjoy not only the taste, but also immerse yourself in the game of aroma.

Let's return to our straits. Tea drinking begins with the preparation of water and utensils. What we need:

Water with a temperature of 95 degrees;
Yixing clay teapot/gaiwan for Wuyi oolongs. Porcelain with thick or medium-thick walls is also suitable;
Chahai. The material doesn't really matter;
Cup/bowl.

At the very beginning, we warm up the dishes, after which we place the tea in a teapot or gaiwan. Fill with water and drain immediately. The first brew is not drunk; it is necessary to rinse the tea and also prepare it for further brewing.

After this you can start brewing. The brewing container is filled to the top with water. Let the tea steep for 5-20 seconds, depending on the amount of tea you put in. After this, pour the finished infusion into chahai.

Pour tea from the chai into cups. Let it cool a little so that the temperature is about 45-50 degrees. This will allow the taste to convey its qualities as much as possible.

Enjoy your tea!

 01.09.2015

 Tao of Tea

So, the first line of my hit parade
I boldly give it to the Big Red Robe.
What I like is Da Hong Pao
The tea drunkard is here, Vasya, get the poison.
Guf & Basta - Tea drunkard (Lyrics)

Da Hong Pao is one of the most famous Chinese Teas. It deservedly bears such epithets as “The Pearl of the Heart of All Teas” and “Emperor of Tea”. The Big Red Robe has a long history; a large number of legends are associated with its name.

Big Red Robe was first produced in Wuishan and belongs to the category of Oolong teas. There are the “Four Magnificent Bushes” (Xida Ming Cong) and the most famous among them is undoubtedly the Big Red Robe. The other three are just as wonderful: Iron Arhat (Tie Luohan), White Cockscomb (Bai Ji Guan), and Wuyi Ruo Gui (Cinnamon from the Wuyi Mountains), and deserve attention. You may even like them more than their popular relative, the Big Red Robe. Some of these teas are even older than their famous counterpart. By clicking on the name of the tea, you can learn more about them, as well as order them.

In the north of Fujian province, where the Wuyi Mountains lie with green slopes, clean air and clear streams, there is the “ancient paradise on earth”, the Wuyi Mountain Nature Reserve. It is so beautiful here that it takes your breath away! The height of the Mountains reaches 2100 meters above sea level, but tea grows in the hollows between the cliffs, at an average altitude of 600 meters. Here, all the necessary components for growing the most famous tea in the world are perfectly balanced: a temperate climate, streams and frequent fogs, which provide moisture and a soil unique in its composition, from which all the beneficial substances pass into the tea leaf. Wuishan mainly produces highly fermented oolongs. The production of teas in this place is considered the highest achievement of the Tea Tradition. The reference among them is Da Hong Pao. Big Red Robe is one of the most popular teas not only in China, but also far beyond its borders.

The Legend of Da Hong Pao Tea

In the Tian Xing Si (Heavenly Heart) monastery, tea has been grown since ancient times and used in the rituals of Chan Buddhism.

In the Ming Dynasty, student Ding Xian went to take the imperial exams, but on the way he fell ill, and a monk from the Heavenly Heart Monastery gave him tea to heal him. The young man successfully passed the exams and received the high position of Zhuang Yuan (which corresponded to a red robe with dragons). Ding Xian, wanting to thank the Buddha, donated his Red Robe to the tea bushes. This is how, according to legend, the name Da Hong Pao (大红袍) - “Big Red Robe” appeared.

There is another legend that says that during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), the emperor's mother was ill. But after she drank the tea, she began to feel better and better, and in the end she was completely cured, which in those days was heralded as a miracle. The emperor was so pleased that he sent a piece of large red cloth to cover the trees in winter to protect them from death and cold. As you may have guessed, because of this story with the red cloth, the tea tree was called the Big Red Robe.

The best Da Hong Pao is made from raw materials that are collected between the cliffs - “cliff tea” (Zheng Yang). A small amount of this tea is produced; the specific area where this tea grows is limited. The unique mineral composition of the soil, streams, mild climate - all these conditions create excellent tea.

The tea that is harvested in the Pan Yang area - the "half-rocky part" - still contains the recognizable qualities of cliff tea (the tea here grows in the outskirts and adjacent foothills of the ZhengYang area).

Da Hong Pao, which is grown near the banks of the Zhou River and the Huangbo River - Zhou Cha "River Bank Tea" is noticeably inferior in quality to the tea that was grown in the Zheng Yang area. .

In 2005, twenty grams of the Big Red Robe was sold for 200,000 yuan (about US$25,000) in Hong Kong.

There is a funny story that when former American President Richard Nixon visited China, Chairman Mao Zedong presented him with one liang (50 grams) of Da Hong Pao tea. Nixon joked, reproaching the Chinese for greed, noting that there would not be enough tea for a national gift. Later, Premier Zhou Enlai told him that Chairman Mao had given him half of what the entire country had, and Nixon showed great respect for this valuable gift.

According to the classification, Big Red Robe is a highly fermented oolong (about 70%). The harvest for Da Hong Pao is harvested once a year - in the spring, because the leaf must gain strength; if the tea is harvested several times a year (for example, Tie Guan Yin tea is harvested four times a year), then the tea will not be the same. The processing technology of Wuyishan oolongs is the Highest Mastery and includes several stages: drying, processing greens, killing greens, drying, shaking and frying. Each of the stages is the secret of the master, therefore information about each technology is negligible. As a result, after all the manipulations, the leaves become curved, looking like black dragons.

The best Da Hong Pao is roasted over charcoal rather than electric ovens, which helps to better reveal the character of the tea. This tea, like other highly fermented oolongs, can be stored for up to several years without losing its aroma, and sometimes even improves over time.

The taste of Da Hong Pao from Zheng Yang area is truly impressive. Tea from this area has a bright, dense taste, with a long, lingering aftertaste, which is poetically called “Cliff Melody” or “Poetry of the Rocks.” The rich aftertaste of cliff tea is due to the high mineral content of Wuyi soil. They create the unique taste and aroma of tea.

Depending on the production technology and the degree of roasting, the taste of tea can be very different. Lightly roasted (hongpei) Da Hong Pao has a more delicate taste, the aftertaste is dominated by orchid-floral notes. Deeply roasted Da Hong Pao has a denser tea body, with bright fruity notes in the aftertaste. Subsequent pours may reveal caramel tones, spice notes, and hints of dark chocolate. There are many teas on the market that do not have the characteristics of cliff tea. Very often, such tea is produced in violation of technology. The taste of this tea is overcooked, practically without aroma or tart.

Da Hong Pao effect

Da Hong Pao has a pronounced psychophysical effect. The Big Red Robe is known as a tea that changes perceptions. During tea drinking, the atmosphere transforms, even silent people begin to actively talk. The effect this tea gives is difficult to describe in words, you simply feel it as “tea intoxication” or “tea state”. While drinking tea, you can experience insight and a state of mild euphoria. Da Hong Pao is a Zen tea, it helps to tune into a meditative and contemplative state of mind.

Buddhist monks have been drinking tea in Wuishan since ancient times; according to one of the many legends, it was the monk who healed the emperor with tea that was collected from authentic bushes. Monks from Wuyi say that tea helps make the mind quiet, calm and relaxed. According to the monks, tea is an excellent way to get in touch with nature, the past, present and future, especially if you know about it.

Useful properties of Da Hong Pao

Da Hong Pao contains a large number of trace elements and vitamins: polyphenol compounds, caffeine, as well as vitamins K, D, B12, C, B1, B6, B3, B1, E, iron, phosphorus, phosphorus, selenium, magnesium, iodine, zinc, manganese, etc. Big Red Robe tea helps cleanse the body and remove toxins.

It has a beneficial effect on the gastrointestinal tract and helps digest fatty foods.
The rich content of vitamins in Oolong tea helps strengthen the fibrous tissue of the walls of blood vessels and prevents thrombophlebitis.
Strengthens teeth and gums.
Prevents the risk of developing heart disease.

With regular consumption of tea, obese people lose weight and improve their figure (polyphenol compounds contained in Oolong tea break down and remove fat from the human body).