How to feed raspberries after fruiting and pruning top dressing in spring, summer and autumn. Transplanting roses to a new place - what needs to be considered in order for the transplanted roses to take root? How to fertilize strawberries correctly in the fall

19.11.2021

Hello!

Agree, flowers in the house are a joy for the soul, a kind of small oasis, looking at which we give rest to our nerves and eyes tired of the computer and TV.

The useful properties of indoor plants are very multifaceted and the hostesses are not in vain with pleasure in breeding them.

Moreover, most flowers do not require our constant attention, most often they only have to be watered, and all other "operations" are carried out from time to time - feeding, spraying, transplanting.

And today we will master the most important operation, we will learn how to correctly transplant indoor flowers that have long taken root in our home, and flowers purchased in the store.

So, we chose a flower based on our requests and, satisfied with the purchase, brought it home. Now it is imperative to follow all the rules for transplanting, otherwise after a while you will have to carry out a funeral ceremony for the removal of the dried "body". Or, at best, the flower will hurt for a long time, get used to it, but it will never become as beautiful as it was at first.

Transplanting purchased flowers has its own nuances, during which housewives often make the same mistakes. If you are going to transplant a pet that has already settled down with you, then points 3-5 will come in handy.

1 5 main mistakes when transplanting purchased flowers
- 1.1 1. The first mistake - after the purchase, the plant is immediately placed next to other home flowers
- 1.2 2. The second mistake, and the most important - a flower bought in a store is left to grow in the same pot in which it was sold
- 1.3 3. Error three - incorrectly selected soil
- 1.4 4. The fourth mistake - the transplantation of flowers is carried out according to a sparing scheme
- 1.5 5. Mistake the fifth - early feeding of plants

5 main mistakes when transplanting purchased flowers

1. The first mistake - after the purchase, the plant is immediately placed next to other home flowers

This is not worth doing, because if your "newbie" is infected with pests, it will harm his neighbors. Therefore, after the purchase, we send the plant to "quarantine", during which time it, at the same time, will be able to "get used" to the house. Usually "flower quarantine" lasts 1-2 weeks, during which the flower is acclimatized, and we do not bother it, do not fertilize or transplant it.

During this time, we observe the plant and if pests and pathogens have not appeared on it, then we can safely place it in our collection. If it does appear, then we “identify” the pest and neutralize it by treating it with special preparations.

2. The second mistake, and the most important - a flower bought in a store is left to grow in the same pot in which it was sold

The fact is that the transportation of natural soil in open containers (which are flower pots) across the border is prohibited. Therefore, manufacturers replace the nutrient soil with an inert mixture during transportation.

The inert mixture is a combination of coconut flakes, perlite (a natural form of volcanic glass) and long-lasting concentrated fertilizers. Plants can live and develop in such a mixture only for a limited period of time. And if you do not get rid of the root system of plants, they will die.

Alternatively, plants in stores can be kept in peat, which is also detrimental to them at home.

Several times when transplanting, right in the main pot with soil, on the roots of flowers, I found special bags or small pots. If they are not removed, the plant will simply stop growing and developing. Therefore, transplanting flowers in pots is vital.

3. Error three - incorrectly selected soil

Now on sale there are primers for different types of plants. But, based on my experience, I will say that they are still not ideal for transplanting your green pets. And almost always, the composition of the soil has to be adjusted.

Soils can be:

Too dense, then we add additives to it that will loosen it, allowing the roots of the plant to breathe. You can add coarse sand (river, lake), or perlite, which we talked about above, in this case performing the functions of sand. Or long-fiber peat (in which imported plants grow in stores).

If the soil, on the contrary, is too peaty, it is necessary to compact it by adding to it a denser and more nutritious type of sod land.

4. Mistake the fourth - the transplantation of flowers is carried out according to the sparing scheme

That is, the flower is transplanted into a home pot along with part of the soil from the purchased pot in which it grew. This technique is not suitable for purchased flowers.

In the transplantation of imported plants, technology plays the most important role, with it, first of all, we must clean the root system of the plant from the "substrate" in which it was from the moment it left the foreign greenhouse until the moment it arrived at your home.

We take the plant out of the shipping pot and put its roots in a container with warm tap water so that they are soaked. While the flower is soaking, we put drainage on the bottom of the pot and pour nutritious soil.

When the main part of the substrate "falls off" from the roots of the plants, we carefully take it out, holding it by the base of the trunk, and transfer it under running water. Under running water, we completely wash out the residues of the substrate from the roots. After that, it is recommended to spray the root system with a preparation like "Kornevin", but to be honest, I have never done that.

Gently lower the plant onto the prepared soil and sprinkle the roots completely on top. Then pour abundantly with warm, settled water.

When transplanting home indoor flowers, we use the same technology.

The only exception is that we do not wash off the soil from the roots, but just shake off the plant, together with the remnants of the “native” earth, into the prepared pot, fill the root system with prepared soil and water it with settled water. That's it, our flower is absolutely happy, but it is still weak, so we protect the transplanted flower from cooling, drafts and waterlogging.

5. Mistake five - early feeding of plants

After such a "cruel" transplant, many housewives want to help their pet to recover and settle down in new conditions, for which they begin to add various feeding. But in no case should this be done. It will be possible to start feeding the transplanted plant no earlier than a month and a half and only after it, moreover, shows the first signs of normal rooting - new leaves, sprouts, and shoots will appear.

This rule also applies to indoor flowers.

The transplant method I described may seem too traumatic. But do not be afraid, in fact, it turns out to be much more humane for the plant, since the pet will not suffer in a substrate unusual for its habitat.

I applied this method of transplanting to all the plants purchased in the store, and all of them tolerated it safely, continuing to grow and delight with their beauty. The only "missing" plant I had was myrtle, but it disappeared due to improper care of it, the intricacies of which at that time I did not know, only this is a completely different story.

I hope that my experience of transplanting green pets will be useful to you, and if I missed anything in the article, I will be glad to your tips.

And finally, I would like to say that green helpers bring us not only mental pleasure, they help us to heal the body by purifying the air. Some of them absorb carbon dioxide, others - dust, and still others are capable of killing bacteria. A small tip of what to choose in this useful variety.

Absorb carbon dioxide and release oxygen:

Sansiviera, popularly called "pike tail", chlorophytum, coffee tree.

Plants capable of absorbing dust.

Conifers have these properties: spruce, pine, juniper, cypress. In the house, they, of course, can only be in the form of a small coniferous tree - bonsai. I have never come across coniferous bonsai in flower shops, and even searching for them on the Internet has not yet returned any results. Although I would buy such a bonsai with great pleasure.

Harmful bacteria are fought by:

Chlorophytum, asparagus, monstera, myrtle and eucalyptus.

They help relieve stress and fatigue, soothe and improve sleep, so it makes sense to put them in the bedroom:

Rosemary, lemon balm, and the well-known geranium.

Deal with toxins:

Ivy, ficus, philodendron, dracaena and aloe.

Azalea or rhododendron have a rare gift.

They say that this plant can relieve not only fatigue, but also hangover syndrome. To do this, it is enough to spend half an hour in the same room with this "green doctor". The advice was not checked, since we do not drink so much - with

All of the above advantages sound very convincing, in order for you to want to buy a green handsome man for your home, especially since now you know how to properly transplant both indoor flowers and flowers bought in a store.

Competent and timely fertilization is the key to the harmonious development of seedlings. However, many gardeners are poorly informed about when and what top dressing to apply. This article will help you understand all the intricacies of an important process aimed at increasing the productivity of plant growth.

Proper fertilization of the soil will create favorable conditions for the existence of crops and avoid problems in the future. But it is necessary to fertilize competently. Uncontrolled introduction of organic matter or complex fertilizing can be harmful. So, how to feed the seedlings?

Young plants primarily need phosphorus, nitrogen and potassium. Usually, it is them that are lacking in the soil, which means that this should be compensated. Hydrogen, oxygen, carbon are equally important components of "excellent health". If the nutritional value of the soil leaves much to be desired, then the seedlings will experience a lack of these elements of the periodic table. But calcium, sulfur, magnesium, manganese at the beginning of the journey requires a minimum amount.

The need for certain fertilizers depends on the type of crops that you have planted. So, pears and apple trees are more in need of organic matter. Cherries and apricots are in minerals.

How do you know what exactly is missing?

If the seedlings do not take root well, you should take a closer look at them. With a careful visual examination, you will definitely find characteristic signs of a deficiency of this or that element.

Thin weak stems, small pale leaves indicate that the seedlings lack nitrogen. Do the leaves dry at the edges, turn yellow or brown? You need potassium. Acute magnesium deficiency manifests itself in the form of blanching of the leaves, which subsequently turn yellow and fall off.

Small and almost black foliage, mainly in the lower part of the plant, is a signal that phosphorus should be fed. The lack of iron is indicated by intense wilting of leaves and shoots. Most often, raspberries, grapes, apple trees, plums need iron. But when there is not enough copper, the leaves at the tips brighten, become lethargic and soon die off.

Phosphorus and Potassium: What You Need to Know

Experts advise adding phosphorus and potassium only in the 4th year after planting. Better to do this in the fall, because such complexes contain difficult-to-digest substances. An exception is made for fruiting plants - they are fed in the spring.

Many people apply this fertilizer during fruit setting. And they are doing the right thing - it has a beneficial effect on the quality and quantity of the crop.

So what fertilizer for seedlings containing potassium and phosphorus should be applied first?

potassium sulfate it is used as the main fertilizer for crops that bear fruit. The content of the main active ingredient is 50%. It is introduced mainly in the spring;
potassium salt... The universal top dressing is suitable for any type of crop. The content of the main substance is 40%. Submitted in autumn;
superphosphate... Fertilizer in granules. The phosphoric acid content is up to 20%. Introduced at the rate of 35-40 g / m2;
phosphate rock... Not only a valuable fertilizer, but also an effective neutralizer of increased soil acidity. The phosphorus content varies from 15 to 35%. Focused on feeding any fruit trees.

There are special mixtures containing other substances in addition to potassium and phosphorus. For example, nitrophoska and diammofoska include potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen in different proportions.

Nitrogen: when and how to apply?

If the soil was fertilized with nitrogen during planting, then the first top dressing is practiced in the 3rd year after planting. Most of the nitrogen is applied in spring, less in autumn. Calculate as follows: 20 g / m2 (for poor soils) or 10 g / m2 (for fertile). If you plan to apply nitrogen, then it is worth using:

urea (carbimide)... Contains readily assimilable nitrogen. Young plantings can be fertilized with urea in two ways: by dropping the dry mixture into the trunk circles or spraying the trunk and leaves with a solution (for this, 0.5 kg of carbamide is dissolved in a bucket of water);
ammonium nitrate... Top dressing in granules is well absorbed by seedlings. Saltpeter can be used dry (15 g / m2) and liquid (25 g / bucket of water);
compost, bird droppings and manure... Designed to feed the soil of average fertility. They contain a small amount of nitrogen. Optimal as a supplement to other mineral complexes.

Fragile seedlings cannot be fertilized with nitrogen. This will significantly extend the growing season and reduce frost resistance.

Organic: rules to remember

The most useful fertilizer for seedlings is manure. It should be entered in the 3rd year. Chicken droppings are especially valuable. They fertilize the soil in the spring at the rate of 5 kg / m2. For fertilizing fruit trees, manure is diluted with water (1 kg / bucket of water) and infused for 4-5 days. In autumn, the litter dosage is reduced to 0.3 kg / m2. Manure from pets is applied exclusively in a rotted state. Fertilize with manure once every 3 years. If the land is very poor, it can be done once every 2 years.

Another useful organic fertilizer is peat. Improves air permeability and soil structure. Furnace ash reduces the acidity of the earth. It is brought in at the rate of 100 g / m2. Mix with other organic matter or prepare a solution.

Compost deserves special attention. It is brought in in the first year after planting. Increases the nutritional value of the soil, enriches it with humus and improves aeration. Contains substances necessary for seedlings to grow.

High-quality compost can successfully replace any mineral mixture. This makes composting easy. To do this, dig a trench in the fall and fill it with leaves, grass, sawdust, tops, tea leaves and other waste. They fill the compost pit with earth and safely forget about it until spring. Over the winter, everything you put into it will turn into a wonderful fertilizer.

The interval between dressings is 2 seasons. The optimal time for composting is September-October. Important: the compost is slightly dug into the top layer of the earth or simply laid out near the tree trunks.

Do not know what else to feed the seedlings with? Ready-made fertilizers have proven themselves to be excellent - "Aquarin", "Kemira", "Ekofoska", "AVA", "Uniflor-growth", "Florist", "Ferovit", "Uniflor". The main thing is to carefully read the instructions (the composition of the preparations is different) and observe the dosage.

For good fruiting, strawberry bushes are recommended to be replanted once every 2 to 3 years. Growing longer than this period, strawberries gradually cease to bear fruit. The fact is that during this time pests and spores of the fungus take root in the soil, as well as bacteria that have a bad effect on the growth of bushes and the number of ovaries. Crop rotation rejuvenates the plants, so in the fall you need to work in the garden so as not to be left without berries next year.

When to transplant strawberries

When there is time and desire. But the result from transshipment of plants in spring, summer or autumn will be different:

Spring bushes in summer will not bloom and bear fruit, you will have to wait next year. Their task is to take root and gain strength.... In the spring, it is better to root the mustache - they are small, they are just starting to grow anyway. Some summer residents cut them off in the fall and add them in, and in the spring they take them out to the garden.

In summer, it is problematic to plant strawberry bushes, since in the heat they take root worse and get sick more often... Watering the seedlings will need to be done in the morning and in the evening, if there is no rain. The most optimal summer month for transshipment is July. Closer to August.

In the middle lane and in the northern regions, they do this, because the bushes still have a month to settle down in a new place, and then the cold sets in. If the bush began to expel new leaves after transplanting in the summer, then the event was a success. Minus one - there will be no berries on summer bushes, only next spring.

The most convenient time is the end of summer or autumn. In warmer regions, summer lasts longer and bushes can be planted even in September, because the temperature will only start to drop in October. After wintering, the bushes will bloom and give a harvest. In this way, you can plant an entire plantation and not be left without strawberries in the spring.

When handling strawberries in the autumn, you need to help them take root faster. To do this, you need to stock up on fertilizers - organic or mineral in granules, than you can feed the strawberries after transplanting in August.

How to choose strawberry seedlings

The owner of the site probably knows when he last planted strawberries. Therefore, if a bush has been growing in one place for 4 - 5 years, it is better not to transfer it to a new bed. Better to take young shoots - mustaches or two-year-old bushes of garden strawberries. If the bush has 3 - 4 leaves and a root system, it can be used for planting.

If you transplant remontant varieties that still bear fruit in the fall, then you need to transfer to a new place those bushes on which there are no berries left or remove the entire crop by cutting off green berries and flower stalks. Thus, all the energy of the bush will be used for rooting and the bush will overwinter well. Usually, strawberry transplanting begins 2 weeks after the crop is harvested from the bush.

Video: The first feeding and processing of strawberries

The maximum yield increase in a new place is given by bushes that were replanted at one or two years of age.

In autumn, the rains begin and the heat subsides, which strawberries do not like so much. Therefore, the conditions for survival are the most favorable.

The procedure for transplanting

First, choose a place. It is best if greens or early crops - radishes, onions, garlic - grew in front of the strawberries in the garden.

There will be time to add nutrients and restore the amount of humus in the soil. Fertilizers when transplanting strawberries are the main condition for their fruiting for the next year.

1.5 months before the proposed transplant strawberries are dug up the soil with humus or compost. Fresh manure is not used, except to insist it before putting it into the soil for a week and dilute it with water so that ammonia does not damage the roots, which are vulnerable during transplantation.

At least 5 kg of organic matter is applied per square meter. You can spill soil with biological solutions to accelerate decomposition. For example - Baikal EM. The soil should be moist, since only in a humid environment can bacteria efficiently process organic matter that has entered the soil. All weeds are removed.

The time for transshipment is chosen in the evening so that the sun does not injure the plants. Even better - in cloudy weather.

Dig a hole along the length of the root system.

Put a layer of sand on the bottom.

Fill 2 - 3 liters of water and wait until it is absorbed.

Place the bush in the ground and sprinkle with soil. At a depth of 2 cm from the top layer sprinkle with potassium sulfate and superphosphate granules. Cover the top of the fertilizer with soil.

Pour 1 liter of water over the root area.

The root collar should be above the soil surface. The roots should not be exposed. If the soil sags and opens part of the root system, the earth is added and tamped.

It is important what fertilizer to apply when transplanting strawberries. You can not use nitrogen fertilizing, since after them the green mass goes into growth and the plant will weaken in winter, it may even die during the first frost. The main nutrients are phosphate-potassium fertilizers for root support and bud formation for the next year.

Film landing

The method has both pros and cons. If the soil is covered with a black film, evaporation is reduced and moisture remains in the soil longer. But this can lead to the formation of mold and plant disease.

Therefore, the hole under the bush is made wider so that air enters the root zone, and the film itself is placed on a layer of straw and is not pressed strongly to the ground. The air will circulate better and the berries will stay clean. In this case, the weeds will not be able to grow, since they will not receive sunlight.

Lutrasil film will help plants overwinter, protecting them from freezing.

Sometimes Lutrasil is used for trapezoidal landings. It does not allow the soil to creep, supporting the embankment in the desired shape.

At a summer cottage, this method is very laborious and does not differ much from ordinary landings. The root system is raised above the soil surface in the northern regions so that the roots freeze less, and fresh manure is placed at the base of the embankment, which decomposes and heats the roots additionally. The height of the embankment is 50 - 60 cm.

When and how to fertilize strawberries when transplanting

One method has already been described - feeding strawberries during transplanting in the fall with mineral fertilizers, which were added directly to the hole, and then watered with water. The soil was previously enriched with humus. Thus, the strawberry bushes received all the nutrition they needed in the winter.

There are other ways than feeding strawberries in August when transplanting:

Wood ash. It is also of organic origin, contains potassium and phosphorus, as well as trace elements - calcium, copper, boron, zinc, iodine. It is better not to add dry matter, as ash has an alkaline reaction and can damage the roots.

Phosphate fertilizers will not dissolve in an alkaline environment, and root nutrition will be limited. 300 g of ash is insisted in a bucket of water for 3-4 days and poured in liter of solution under the root, then sprinkle with earth. Strawberries are supplied with food until spring, and in the spring it will be necessary to spray with a foliar urea solution to stimulate the greens to grow.

Bone flour. Contains calcium and phosphorus. When embedded in the ground, a hood is made by pouring boiling water over the substance. With such a feeding, the phosphorus nutrition of the strawberry bushes will last for 3 years. You will need to feed it with nitrogen and potassium.

You can fertilize strawberries in the fall when transplanting one superphosphate. The main goal is to maintain the root system. The superphosphate contains nitrogen in a small amount, which does not affect the wintering of plants, and calcium, which stimulates metabolic processes and accelerates rooting. Superphosphate must be poured with boiling water and allowed to stand for a day, stirring occasionally to completely dissolve. So it gets into the tissues of the plant faster.

The main thing is that the bushes after transplantation are regularly watered if the weather is warm. Watering should not be superficial. You need to calculate the amount of water so that the water penetrates to the very roots.

Pelargonium prefers drought rather than excessive moisture. It is recommended to water the plant rarely, but abundantly. So how do you water? Optimally - 2 times a week. Excessively moist soil can provoke the appearance of mold on the leaves of the flower. One of the signs of improper watering is yellowed leaves, a wilting plant. The soil in the pot should be slightly damp.

Important! Do not spray the leaves, this can cause burns.

The importance of proper fertilization

The choice of fertilizer for pelargonium is an important issue. The flower does not need organic feeding... Geranium requires a complex of mineral fertilizers with potassium, nitrogen and phosphorus. Which must be brought in in equal portions. But first, the nitrogen dose decreases, and the potassium dose, on the contrary, increases.

When and in what cases top dressing is required?

In winter, fertilization is not required for the flower.... The indoor pet is fed only in the spring-summer period. It is enough to carry out the procedure twice a month, one hour after abundant watering.

Patients with pelargonium cannot be fertilized.

You cannot fertilize pelargonium if it has been in bright sun all day. The flower must be shaded, then watered, and only then the necessary substances must be added. Pelargonium should not be fertilized 2 weeks before and within a week after transplanting.

How and how to fertilize?

The main rule for feeding a plant is observing the dose of fertilizers.... Withered or yellowed leaves indicate an overabundance of nutrients.

Nitrogen substances must be added only after.

In order to prevent burns of geranium roots, fertilizers in liquid form should be applied only after watering.
After adding minerals, the soil under the plant must be loosened.

How to feed for the formation of buds?

For abundant flowering, the culture must be fed with mineral fertilizers. One-component fertilizing is required - nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, iodine.

Reference! Phosphorus is essential for bud formation. Its deficiency slows down the process. With a lack of potassium, the growth of the culture stops. Nitrogen promotes stem, leaf and root growth.

It is recommended to apply nitrogen fertilizers in the spring.- during the period of active growth of pelargonium. The most popular nitrogen fertilizers are ammonium sulfate and ammonium nitrate. You can use ready-made mineral formulations with a high nitrogen content for indoor flowering plants. You can buy them in specialized stores.

To achieve active flowering, vitamins, which are sold in the pharmacy in the form of ampoules - B1, B6 and B12, can be used as dressings. They are introduced by the method of alternation - an ampoule of the vitamin is diluted in 2 liters. water, the resulting solution is poured abundantly on the bush. After 2-3 weeks, another vitamin is used according to the same scheme. Vitamin dressings increase the quality of budding and flower immunity. It is advisable to use them in spring and summer.

How to fertilize pelargonium for lush flowering is described in this video:

Folk ways

What if you did something wrong?

Excess fertilization can lead to root rot. And with a deficiency of nutrients, geranium leaves lose their elasticity and brightness.
If the indoor pet does not bloom, then the flowerpot may be too large or there is an excess of nitrogen fertilizer in the soil.
Overfeeding pelargonium provokes an increase in the mass of green leaves, and the peduncles, meanwhile, weaken.

Attention! The transplanted pelargonium cannot be fed for the first 2-3 months. All the food you need at this time is fresh.

Watering the flower afterwards is necessary in moderation, but regularly.... Provide adequate lighting. Avoid temperature extremes and drafts. If these simple rules are followed, in a month, pelargonium will bloom again.

Indoor plants need not only correct, but timely feeding. Fertilizing pelargonium is easy and inexpensive. The main thing is to observe the measure, not to forget about the mineral complex and water with iodine. And the beautiful geranium will delight you with lush and long flowering.

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Do I need to apply fertilizer when planting a seedling? It all depends on what kind of soil you have at the planting site. If this is good garden land, then don't. If there is solid sand, then it is imperative to add any complex mineral fertilizer that slowly dissolves in water. For a one-year-old seedling, it is enough to make, for example, 1 tbsp. spoon "Aquarium" Buisk chemical plant. Or 1 tbsp. a spoonful of granular, water-insoluble AVA fertilizer. By the way, it will last for three years. At worst, you can make 1 tbsp. spoon "Azofoski", even better - "Ekofoski" or "Kemira".

In addition, organic matter must be introduced. In sandy or sandy loam or podzolic soils - 2-3 buckets of rotted compost or manure, iodine, a one-year-old seedling. For a two-year-old seedling, the dose should be doubled, and for a three-year-old - threefold.

If the soil is peaty, then it is better to deoxidize it, and not apply mineral fertilizers. Organics on such soils are also not needed in the first year of the seedling's life. Trees are not planted in clay, as mentioned above, but the hill, which will have to be poured on top of it, must contain both organic and mineral fertilizers.

When and how to feed the trees? The basic principle of any feeding is that what we take out is what we bring in. That is, how much and what kind of minerals we carry away with the harvest must be returned back to the soil. In addition, it is also necessary to provide food for soil microorganisms, that is, to introduce a subtree of undoped organic matter. The easiest way to do this is without removing anything from under the tree - fallen leaves, weeds that have been weeded or cut at the level of the soil, and, if necessary, put the compost either in trenches (when planting in holes), or directly on the soil (when planting on hill or flat surface) along the perimeter of the crown.

The apple tree takes out 17 g of nitrogen, 5 g of phosphorus, 20 g of potassium from each square meter of the occupied area of nutrition (approximately 4 x4 = 16 m 2) with an average yield of 4-6 kg (from 1 m 2). The total removal of minerals for the season will be 42 g (agronorm), and the percentage of these basic nutrients (balance) for the apple tree will be 41: 11:48. Those plants that carry more than 45% of potassium out of the total amount of elements with a harvest are classified as potassium-loving. Thus, the apple tree is a potassium-loving plant. In addition, it takes out 12.6 mg of iron, 5 mg of boron, 4.4 mg of copper, 2.4 mg of manganese, 2.6 mg of zinc, 0.05 mg of molybdenum from the soil with a yield from each 1 m 2 per season. All this must be returned to the soil (or brought in for a given season). The feeding area is 16 m 2, so nitrogen for the apple tree will need 272 g, about 9 tbsp. spoons. Phosphorus - 80 g, but pure phosphorus in phosphorus oxide (which is part of mineral fertilizers) contains only 0.44%, so phosphorus oxide will have to take 181 g, that is, 6 tbsp. tablespoons of double granular superphosphate. Potassium apple requires 320 g for the entire season, however, potassium oxide contains 0.83%, which means that potassium fertilizer should be taken 382 g, that is, 12 tbsp. spoons.

Unlike garden plants, which should be fed and watered all season, fruit and berry plants need mineral fertilizing twice a season. The first should be done in the spring, at the time of the spread of the leaves. Plants need nitrogen and potassium at this time. But the potassium dose should be divided into spring and late summer. Thus, with spring feeding, you should take 9 tbsp. tablespoons of nitrogen and potassium. In total, there will be 18 tbsp. spoons per 16 m 2 of food area. Thus, a little more than 1 tbsp is enough. spoons per 1 m 2. If you use potassium nitrate, then 1 tbsp is enough. Dissolve a spoon in 10 liters of water, to which you must additionally add 1/2 tbsp. tablespoons of urea, and pour one linear meter around the perimeter of the tree crown. And in order to feed an adult apple tree, you will need to pour 16 buckets of the solution prepared in this way under it.

You can use specialized feeding for fruit and berry plants of the Buisk chemical plant, you can use only "Aquarin" or "Omu". Enough 3 tbsp. spoons per 10 liters of water. Or take "Ekofoska" or "Kemira". At worst, use 1 tbsp. spoon of urea and 2 tbsp. tablespoons of carbonate or potassium sulfate (or potassium magnesium) per 10 liters of water. If there are no mineral fertilizers at all, pour the soil under the tree around the crown perimeter with a solution of manure (or feces) diluted with water 1: 10 (if you use bird droppings, prepare the solution 1: 20). Pour it around the perimeter of the apple tree crown, and after a week, pour ash on a damp surface at the rate of 1 glass under a one-year-old seedling.

The nutrient solution is prepared at the rate of 10 liters per square meter of soil surface. An adult apple tree requires a feeding area of 4 x 4 m 2, therefore, it is necessary to feed at least 16 buckets of solution, but it must be poured along the perimeter of the crown of the tree. The berry bush needs a feeding area of 1.5 x 1.5 = 2.25 m 2. Therefore, it is enough to pour 2 buckets of solution under it (again, along the perimeter of the crown, and for black currants even beyond the perimeter of the crown). In the Northwest, the first spring feeding should be given no earlier than at the beginning of June, when the spring frosts have passed, because nitrogen reduces the frost resistance of plants by almost 2 degrees.

The second mineral dressing is needed for fruit and berry crops at the end of summer, when a young root system begins to grow in them. In mid-late August, prepare a solution of double granular superphosphate (2 tablespoons) and potassium (1 tablespoon), which does not contain chlorine, per 10 liters of water. And pour this solution at the rate of 10 liters per square meter (naturally, along the perimeter of the plant crown). Don't worry that superphosphate doesn't dissolve in cold water. Gradually, it will penetrate into the root zone and even remain in the soil for the next season. But you can use ready-made autumn fertilizer for fruit and berry plants of the Buisk plant. Or once every three years you will embed 3 tbsp. Into the soil to a depth of 7-10 cm along the perimeter of the apple tree crown. tablespoons of granular complex fertilizer AVA. To do this, simply draw a groove around the apple tree with the corner of the weeder.

Spread the fertilizer evenly and cover it with soil. This fertilizer does not dissolve in water, and therefore is not washed out of the soil. The plant uses it sparingly and evenly throughout the season. The fertilizer is dissolved in organic soil acids (the roots themselves partially release these acids, dissolving the fertilizer as needed). It is only necessary to remember that fertilizer does not work in alkaline environments, therefore, ash, dolomite, lime and other deoxidizers should not be applied simultaneously with it. If you add compost every 2-3 years around the perimeter of the crown of one or the other apple tree, then no additional feeding of the tree will be required, with the exception of microelements.

There is another crucial moment in the life of garden plants - the intensive growth of ovaries. At this time, they need microelements, otherwise they cannot avoid the premature discharge of the ovaries and the harvest, which will not only be poorly stored, but also contain vitamins that are subject to rapid destruction. In addition, apples that look healthy can have a brownish flesh and a disgusting taste. Therefore, in the area where the soils are poor and practically do not contain trace elements, plants should be sprayed on young ovaries with a solution of these very trace elements. In particular, it is precisely such soils in the Northwest, where historically there has never been volcanic or mining activity and magma saturated with all minerals has not enriched our soils.

The best preparation for feeding plants with microelements is Uniflor-micro, which contains 15 microelements in a chelated (intracomplex) form. Enough 2 teaspoons per 10 liters of water. An adult tree will require 5-6 liters of solution. For a berry bush, 0.5 liters is enough. Moreover, it is much more efficient to spray the plants rather than water them. If you use AVA as mineral fertilizer, then this feeding is not required. Is it possible to replace "Uniflor-micro" if it is not there? Yes, you can, with any fertilizer that contains a large amount of trace elements. Do not forget that foliar feeding of plants by leaves should be 10 times less concentrated than root feeding, otherwise you will burn the plants.

A pear's yield is half that of an apple tree, with the same required feeding area of 4 x 4 m = 16 m 2 - only about 3 kg per 1 m 2. And therefore, the removal of mineral elements with a harvest per season is significantly less: 7 g of nitrogen, 3 g of pure phosphorus and 8 g of pure potassium from each square meter of food area. Agro-norm -18, balance - 41: 15: 44, that is, a pear needs increased doses of phosphorus and slightly lower doses of potassium than an apple tree. Hence, the feeding rates given for the apple tree should be taken half as much for the pear as for the apple tree. To prepare a solution, the dose of phosphorus must be increased by 1/3 st. spoons, and potassium, respectively, reduce by 1 / W tbsp. spoons. That's all there is to it. If you use AVA fertilizer, then 2.5 tbsp is enough for a pear. spoons for three seasons.

Lack of nutrition

Feeding is absorbed through the leaves much faster than through the roots, therefore foliar nutrition is more effective, but only in emergency situations. It cannot replace root nutrition. When foliar top dressing, it is important that there is no rain for 3-4 hours after spraying. In addition, top dressing should be done in the evening so that it is absorbed by the leaves, and does not evaporate in the sun.

With a lack of potassium, the leaves curl up in a boat, and a brown border forms along their edges - an edge burn. Spray the plant with "Uniflor-Bud" (2 teaspoons per 10 liters of water) or a weak solution of potassium fertilizer (1 tablespoon per 10 liters). With a lack of phosphorus, the leaves stretch vertically upward. Feed with double granular superphosphate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters). At worst, potassium and phosphorus will be replaced by ash (pour 1 glass of ash with 1 liter of hot water for a day, then add water to 10 liters, drain).

With a lack of nitrogen, the foliage becomes smaller and brighter. Feed with any nitrogen fertilizer (1 tablespoon per 10 liters), preferably together with potassium (potassium nitrate, for example). Or use "Uniflor-growth".

With a lack of magnesium, the leaves acquire a marble color - dark green with light green. The leaves should be sprayed with Epsom salt or potassium magnesium solution (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).

If the marble spot is variegated (yellow-green or red-green, and so on), then most often this indicates a lack of some trace element. The easiest way is to spray "Uiiflor-micro" (2 teaspoons per 10 liters). Instead of "Uniflora" you can use "Florist" or "Aquadon-micro" in the same concentration. At worst, use the ash infusion, as described above.

If there are brown spots on the leaves, then most often this is evidence of a lack of iron. There is an excellent drug "Ferovit" (2-4 drops per 1 liter) or any of the "Uniflor". As a last resort, use 0.1% iron sulfate (1 teaspoon per 10 liters of water). If there are black spots on the leaves, then it is most likely scab. It will not be on the leaves or on the fruits, if you systematically apply the "Healthy Garden".

Frequent headaches (and in our fast-paced world almost everyone suffers from them) can be a sign of a serious illness