How to grow flowers for perfumery. Women's Floral Perfume


How many of you have not experienced the fragrant effect of a scent in a blooming garden. Especially when lilies of the valley, jasmine, roses, lilies, levkoy are in bloom ... Is it possible to enumerate the beautiful flowers, the aroma of which spreads in the air like a wave of a gentle breeze. It seems to you that you are bathed in this fragrance, you breathe it and cannot breathe, your soul melts with admiration.


Language is powerless here - and how to find words
For these bright colors, ...


Whoever was lucky enough to visit the vicinity of Grasse, when the gardens are in bloom, certainly felt the breath of flower plantations long before approaching the city. The scent of the bloom is so strong that it permeates the air for miles around. And every hour more and more flowers bloom, and one scent is replaced by another.


But soon, very soon, the scent and beauty of flowers will become a thing of the past, if not for the art of perfumers, which can prolong flowering and give us their fragrance for a longer period.



The time has passed, and the roses have faded.
People took their scent from roses,
For roses, the bottle is a glass prison:
It's summer in it, even if winter is coming.


Only flowers do not so easily give their fragrant essence into the hands of a person. And only a perfumer, a true artist and composer, brings us closer to the perfection of aromas.


Floral fragrance group


This family can be said to be the most important, uniting perfumes, the main theme of which is the flower.
Floral fragrances are one of the largest families. Almost no composition can do without them. This is a family that can be classified into subgroups:
1. One flower
2. Flower bouquet
3. Lavender flower
4. Floral green
5. Floral aldehyde
6. Floral-woody
7. Floral-fruity


Subgroup - one flower, in it the leading theme is one flower. It's just like a piece of music has the main part, for example, jasmine - Jasmin De Corse from Coty, lily of the valley - Diorissimo, created by French perfumer Edmond Roudnitska for the House of Dior, where "... lilies of the valley smell like this only in paradise"


Flower bouquet - this subgroup is the most numerous, because even in a perfume in which a part of one flower sounds, a whole bouquet still gathers around it, and sometimes a harmony of aromas is created in which the sound is so beautiful, although it does not resemble the fragrance of any one flower - for example , Cerruti Pour Homme from Cerruti, Macassar from Roche. Or the time-tested Quelques Fleurs (Several Flowers), created in 1913 and then re-released in 1985 under the name Quelques Fleurs I "Original, combines a harmony of colors from rose, jasmine, lilac, orchid, violet and creates a truly dizzying effect that makes you remember this smell for a long time.



There are floral scents in which lavender is the main character.
For example Donna Karan Essence Lavender. Lavender is a fragrance from the Donna Karan Essence series. The perfume is dedicated to lavender. This is a classic lavender scent, soothing and calm, it is always appropriate for any occasion. As soon as you inhale this aroma, you will feel like on the endless plantations of Grasse.


Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Lavande Velours. This composition is also built around a lavender note. The perfume dedicated to lavender can be enumerated endlessly, not to mention the fact that most English perfumers have a weakness for lavender.



Floral green theme - Touch For Woman by Burberry, Manifesto by Isabella Rossellini, floral-aldehyde - Infini by Karon, Dazziling Silver by Este Lauder. There is also a floral and fruity - 212 from Aqua Di Gio from Armani, Boss Woman from.


Eau de parfum Lady Gaga Fame, Lady Gaga. It is a colorful symphony of floral and fruity components, bright and intense.


"Flowerbomb" by Viktor & Rolf. It is indeed an incredible explosion of flowers and citrus: bergamot and orange, rose and jasmine, freesia, orchid and sweet tuberose, tea and musk, which create a single aromatic harmony.


Floral woody - CK Be from Calvin Klein, Lacoste Pour Femme from Lacoste, sometimes even distinguish a subgroup of floral-woody-musky - Blv from Bulgari, Noa from Kasharel, Ke Feu Light from Issei Miyake.


Today fragrances have such a complex structure that they include substances of almost all groups and it can be difficult to determine which group it belongs to. But the most important thing is that you like the scent and that it be in tune with your soul.


Floral fragrances are a perfumery niche that will always have its adherents. The smell of flowers is a universal language. And today's achievements perfume industry allow the scent to unfold as fully as possible, interacting with other components of the perfume. What flowers most often inspire perfumers to create exquisite compositions that are so dizzy for ourselves and others?

Modern perfumery has learned to synthesize even those fragrances, the extract of which cannot be obtained naturally. For example, all variations on the theme of lilac, lily of the valley and violet are artificial analogues of fragrances.

In our catalog there are exquisite floral and most feminine fragrances collected in elegant bottles of luxury eau de toilette - for the most delicate women and elegant men.

Rose is the most common floral scent

Of course, the queen of flowers, how else. The scent of rose flowers has long agitated those in contact with it: sweet, fresh, alluring. And today the rose occupies a dominant position in the perfumery Olympus. Most of the floral fragrances reveal a rose note in one way or another. Rose can sound very differently in perfume compositions.

Chloe l`eau de chloe

This year's perfume, which is 20% rose juice. The top note is fresh: orange, lime, grapefruit create a spring mood. Then a pink note gradually unfolds. And here the rose is synonymous with freshness. Light, airy perfume. If you always thought that the rose is too sweet and heavy, with this floral scent you have a chance to change your mind.

Very Irresistible Givenchy L'Intense

A completely different rosy story. Here, the rose is a provocation, courage, approval. The plum opening note quickly gives way to the aroma of Turkish rose. And only at the end of the sound, the intensity decreases, the aromas of patchouli and white musk gently finish the perfume game. But who is the queen here - there is no doubt.

Omnia Amethyste Bvlgari

Freshness and tenderness, determination and sexuality ... Rose is also a symbol of voluptuous luxury and bliss. A sensual, luxurious fragrance for a chic woman. The one that worries is his name. Captivating and mesmerizing floral-fruity notes of pink grapefruit with a touch of greenery. The scent of flowers is revealed by iris, and - meet the queen - a Bulgarian rose! The aroma is sensual, alluring, attractive. Royal indeed.

Jasmine: a floral scent that's good for more than just tea

Where there is a rose, there is jasmine. Of course, I'll start with HIM. Probably the most popular perfume in the world. Are there those who have not heard of ...

Chanel No. 5

The best jasmine flowers, hand-picked at dawn in Provence ... The order of Coco Chanel to Ernest Beau, the creator of the most famous perfume in the history of mankind, sounded like this: "an artificial female scent that smells like a Woman." Can you describe it better?

Exciting even before the woman walks in. Ylang-ylang, bergamot, lemon, which give way to jasmine, lily of the valley, violet and rose, revealing the very essence of what smells of a woman. And the final trail - patchouli, amber, sandalwood, a little vanilla. Classics are eternal.

Floral scents are so fickle! Deceptive jasmine ... Don't get too classic. You better try

Ange Ou Demon Le Secret Givenchy

One of the variants of the famous Ange ou Demon line. An accord of jasmine tea, which we add to a sophisticated floral composition. Graceful and elegant, gentle and strong. The duality inherent in the aromas of this line is revealed very gracefully in this sample. Transparent, light top notes: Italian lemon, a little cranberry, morning green tea leaves. Softly, gradually, but inevitably, you find yourself in the sweet aromatic captivity of the freshness of jasmine, white peony and water lily. All will end with a woody patchouli scent. And the feeling that nothing is over.

Cacharel noa dream

An airy fragrance, positioned as "a journey between dreams and reality through clouds and time." An enticing accord of mandarin, lychee and black pepper. The heart of the perfume is jasmine, complemented by hints of gardenia and peach. Framing - the astringency of musk, sandalwood, amber and patchouli. A special scent for a special woman.

Lavender, mountain lavender: a floral scent of tranquility

Lavender! Calming, serenity, enthralling to lavender fields. Beautiful! By the way, a powerful afordisiac, mind you.

Chloe eau de fleurs lavande

A heady, feminine fragrance that combines audacity, unpredictability and elegance. The introductory word is the scent of violet and bergamot flowers, which the tea note allows to open up brighter. And in the heart of the fragrance, exquisite lavender blooms. Elegance, balance, femininity - this is the message of this perfume. The finishing touch is the sweetness of musk, white cedar, vetiver and amber.

Elizabeth arden green tea lavender

Beloved by fans of green flavors, green tea in lavender design.

Floral scents can be fresh in the first place! Light and carefree, fresh and inspiring, harmonious and soothing. Lavender tea ceremony begins with citruses and aromatic herbs. Lemon with tangerine and mint with chamomile tune in the right way and prepare for the appearance of it - blooming lavender. And along with it - peace, harmony, inspiration. Bottom notes of musk and amber add to this summer splendor.

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Lavande Velours

A worthy representative of the Guerlain line, which is entirely dedicated to the disclosure of the scent of mountain lavender. The harmonious combination with the middle notes of violet and iris fills with grace and soothes. The sandalwood trail creates a pleasant afterword. And an endless lavender scent note.

Floral fragrances: this wonderful orange blossom

The smell of orange blossom leaves no one indifferent. The aroma of neroli (as it is also called the fleurdorn) is either very pleasant or categorically disliked. Neroil is a powerful aphrodisiac with a clean, fresh scent. Neroli oil is actively used in perfumery.

Chloe Eau de Fleurs Neroli

A fresh composition based on neroli. The spicy note of rosemary and the astringency of citrus gradually transform into a sunny sage aroma, shaded by tonka beans and peony petals. Light woody notes as the final chord. You and neroli - freshness, tenderness, mystery.

Versace yellow diamond

Luxurious femininity, shine of diamonds, bliss and sophistication are the name of this perfume. The scent of neroli flowers mixed with lemon and bergamot, a hint of pear, is a voluptuous and inviting introduction. The heart of the fragrance is water lily and mimosa, a more deeply revealing aroma of neroli and tart freesia. The final trail of musk and amber. Luxury. Versace. You.

Lady Million Paco Rabanne

Bold and sensual, determined, sophisticated and tempting - this fragrance was created for such a woman. Top notes are neroli, raspberry and orange. The peak of sensuality is revealed in the middle notes of Arabian jasmine, orange blossom and gardenia. Patchouli and honey complete the look of the temptress from Paco Rabanne.

The smell of lily flowers: tenderness as it is

There are ambiguities around this scent. On the one hand, we read that we have not yet learned how to obtain lily essential oil. On the other hand, lily is actively used in perfumery. Where is the truth?

The so-called absolute is isolated from the lily by solvent extraction or CO2-extraction. The oil yield in this case is - attention - 0.2%. Thus, perfumes that use natural lily absolute are very expensive. But the achievements of perfumery allow today to synthesize the aroma of lilies, due to which the cost is reduced. The scent of lily flowers is worth using, right.

L "Eau D" Issey Issey Miyake

A fresh, feminine scent. However, this applies to almost all lily-based fragrances. Subtle introduction: lotus, freesia, cyclamen, rose water. The seductively enticing heart of the perfume: white lily, peony, carnation. Depth and softness - Chinese moss, tuberose, amber, musk. Wonderful perfume.

Donna karan gold

Sublime and sophisticated scent from Donna Karan. The floral blend, which unfolds with white lily and acacia, gradually turns into jasmine and pollen. The finish is patchouli.

Marina de Bourbon Eau De Lys

A subtle, delicate and romantic scent opens up with a fresh note - bamboo, green apple, citron, gradually leading us to the heart of the perfume: jasmine, white rose, white lily, hyacinth. The final chord of this hymn of tenderness is amber and cedar wood.

Which floral scent will you choose?

  • Eau de Toilette Omnia Amethyste Bvlgari, Bvlgari
  • Eau de parfum Ange Ou Demon Le Secret, Givenchy
  • Eau de Toilette Chloe Eau de Fleurs Neroli, Chloe
  • Eau de parfum Donna Karan Gold, Donna Karan

In modern high-quality perfumery, such a rich assortment of aromatic substances is used that perfumers who created their compositions half a century ago would envy him. A modern creator has more than a hundred products of natural (animal or plant) origin at his disposal, as well as those components, the production of which is associated with chemical synthesis. It is thanks to this that every year more and more new and wonderful perfume compositions are growing in the world.

As you understand, in the composition of any perfume, not the component itself is used, but its essential oil, which can be extracted in different ways. Currently, essential oil can be extracted using four main methods. The mechanical method is squeezing essential oil by pressing the zest or rind of fruits and citrus fruits. This method is used to obtain lemon, tangerine, orange oils. The distillation method uses steam stripping in its work. Distillation is actively used to obtain coriander, mint, geranium, and rose oils. Essential oils can also be obtained using non-volatile and volatile solvents. These processes are called maceration and extraction, respectively. With the help of solvents, essential oils of ylang-ylang, jasmine and rose are obtained. Finally last method is the extraction of oils using dynamic sorption and enfleurage, but this method is rarely used.

As we have already said, not only natural, but also synthetic fragrances can be used in modern perfumery. In the second case, we are talking about a rather large group of organic compounds that can be obtained by physicochemical or purely chemical methods. Plant products or various chemical materials are used as raw materials for the production of synthetic substances. With the help of chemical synthesis, perfumers were able to extract the essential oils of fresh hay, cloves, lilacs, lilacs, lily of the valley and many other oils that are actively used in complex perfume compositions. Without synthetic fragrances, the world would never have known about such a legendary perfume as Chanel No. 5. This fragrance is based on chemically synthesized substances - aldehydes.

And yet perfume compositions would not be so perfect if they did not use natural raw materials, which are very rare and high cost. If the perfume contains natural ingredients, then the aroma receives the necessary depth, natural "magic", originality and individual disclosure, which occurs at the moment when drops of perfume fall on your skin... Next, we will consider those components that are most often used in the composition of modern perfumery products.

Buds, buds, petals and flowers

A modern person can draw a clear parallel between flowers and perfumes. However, one should not think that the perfume industry began its existence precisely with the use of representatives of the floral world. Initially, perfumers tried to achieve a unique "plant spirit" using their own imagination, courage and certain technologies. But to achieve desired effect without real raw materials it was impossible. Only natural ingredients could reveal the enchanting versatility of one or another component in a perfume.

the Rose

For several millennia in a row, the rose has been considered the real queen of not only flowers, but of all perfumery as a whole. Rose essential oil learned to extract as early as the first millennium BC. Homer in his works mentioned that rose oil was extracted using olive oil, in which rose petals were soaked. It was with rose oil that Aphrodite washed the body of the deceased Hector. The distillation of rose petals in Islamic perfumery begins with Damascus. In the 8th century AD, the Persian city of Shiraz was known far beyond the borders of the country for its wonderful pink water. Until the 17th century, this water was exported to China, India and Europe at fabulous prices, since no one could achieve the same quality of the rose extract. In addition to pharmacists and culinary specialists, rose water was actively used by Western measures, from the Renaissance to the 19th century. The sultans of Persia considered it an honor to stuff their mattresses with precious rose petals.

It is worth noting that, despite the variety of pink varieties, only two of its varieties are used in modern perfumery. These are Rosa damascene, which is grown in Turkey and Bulgaria, and Rosa centifolia, which grows in Morocco and Grasse. The second variety of rose, sometimes called Provencal or May, is used to obtain concrete by treating the rose petals with volatile solvents. And pure oil is already released from the concrete. The Moroccan centifolia rose, as well as the Turkish rose damascene, are treated with steam and solvents. It is water vapor that helps to obtain the purest essential oil from rose petals, which is used to create perfume compositions.

When collecting roses, the main thing is to comply with all the necessary rules and conditions. So, if you pick rose petals in the heat, you will get a strong aroma, but it will not differ in tenderness. Roses must be picked at dawn, and exclusively by hand. The collection of roses is very fast, in order to be in time before half past nine in the morning. It is at this time that the largest amount of volatile substances is observed in the flower, which makes the essential oil great. One skilled worker can harvest 5-8 kilograms of petals per hour. For a whole day of work, active workers collect half a centner of rose petals. Do you think that 50 kilograms is a lot? Then you need to know that one kilogram of rose essential oil is obtained from five tons of pink flowers. That is, the total collection of one skilled worker results in one gram of rose oil.

The composition of rose oil contains about three hundred aromatic compounds, some of which even modern science cannot identify. This explains the fact that it is not yet possible to copy natural rose oil using chemical synthesis. However, modern rose lovers do not have to complain. Indeed, in addition to huge pink plantations, there are such stunning aromas as Joy from Jean Patou or Paris from Yves Saint Laurent, the smell of which can be considered almost perfect. Let's hope that scientists will soon be able to copy rose oil by decrypting all its components.

Jasmine

Today, many varieties of jasmine are known. However, as in the case of the rose, only the species jasmin grandiflorum is used, which was first developed in Persia or Central Asia. It is reliably known that in 1560 Spanish sailors first brought the jasmine tree to Grasse, after which this component began to be actively used in French perfumery. Unfortunately, only a little less than 10 hectares are left of the jasmine plantations in Grasse, as a result of which flowers are difficult to obtain even for brands such as Chanel and Jacques Patou. It is the small number of natural raw materials that explains the fact that Grasse jasmine is considered one of the most expensive components of perfumery.

In addition to France, jasmine grows in Egypt, India, Morocco and Italy, that is, in those countries where manual collection of jasmine is cheaper. Note that jasmine only grows in summer. The jasmine tree blooms from August to October, it is then that it is harvested. Note that compared to the beginning of the last century, the production of jasmine oil is small. In the 30-40s of the twentieth century, the annual production of jasmine reached 2 thousand tons. One kilogram of jasmine oil requires eight thousand flowers. Just imagine how huge the plantations must be to provide oil for all the perfumery industries that need it.

Precious jasmine flowers can be spoiled by heat and dew, causing the jasmine to be harvested just before sunrise. Exclusively manual labor is used as machines cannot collect as carefully as necessary. Unlike a rose, a skilled picker can only harvest 700 grams of jasmine per hour. After that, the flowers must reach the factory as soon as possible for subsequent extraction processing. At the beginning of the last century, perfume compositions contained about 10 percent of natural jasmine oil. Today, the best perfumery compositions contain only 1-2 percent of this precious essential oil. It is worth noting that jasmine is one of the most sought-after white flowers in the perfume industry. The best perfumers claim that quality perfumes can only be obtained by using jasmine essential oil. And indeed it is. For example, jasmine has been actively used in the creation of such legendary fragrances as First by Van Cleef, Fleurde fleurs by Nina Ricci, Agrede Lanvin, Joy by Jacques Patou and Chanel # 5.

Tuberose

Tuberose is a flower with an intoxicating scent. The scientific name of this flower is Polianthestuberose. It was first cultivated for perfumery purposes in Mexico, and it was only in the 17th century that the flower came to France, where it began to be cultivated in the Grasse fields. Tuberose was especially loved by the Sun King, who forced all the court beauties to decorate their bodices with a flower. To date, the largest production of tuberose is located in the southeastern part of India, Karnataka, where this flower grows all year round. It is from here that the bulk of tuberose comes to world perfume companies.

Tuberose has a very strong odor, characterized by the presence of warm balsamic shades. As a rule, tuberose is used in perfumery if the task is to create an oriental composition. A striking example of a perfume that uses tuberose is Poison by Christian Dior.

Narcissus

This is a wonderful mountain flower with an equally wonderful scent. Narcissus grows in the meadows of the Massif Central, the Alps and the Jura. If we talk about France, more than a dozen varieties of narcissus are grown here, which in French is called jeanquil. But to create perfumes, only one type of narcissus is used - Narcissus poeticus. This flower blooms in May and is considered quite rare, hence its high cost. The harvested flower grows at a height of about a thousand meters. Not only the flowers themselves, but also the stems with leaves are subjected to solvent extraction. The absolute narcissus oil is virtually indistinguishable from the scent of the flower itself, aside from the greener note provided by the treatment of the stem. Narcissus essential oil is very expensive. One kilogram of flowers is sold for 10 euros, while one kilogram of essential oil requires more than 1200 kilograms of narcissus flowers. The resulting oil has a very intense aroma.

Mimosa

Mimosa came to Europe from Australia. In France, the flower took root very quickly and began to be grown in large quantities. Currently, the massifs of Vara and the Maritime Alps are literally dotted with mimosa during the period from mid-winter to early spring. As a result, the fields take on a gorgeous summer shade. It is worth noting that golden mimosa balls are made of stamens, not petals, which explains the fragility of this flower. Experienced collectors know that cut mimosa is stored for no more than a day. After that, it becomes unusable. Both the leaves and the flowers themselves are processed. The result is an absolute mimosa oil, the aroma of which is almost identical to that of a flower. Perfumers describe the scent of mimosa oil as "tickling" and mellow. The flower is especially revered by the Anglo-Saxons, but mimosa is never used as the main note of a perfume composition. Mimosa oil gives the perfume an excellent floral and powdery range of aromas, so it is only used to create floral perfumes.

Orange blossom or orange blossom

Orange blossom is called the flower of chastity. There is a wonderful tradition in Grasse - to give orange blossom garlands to newlyweds. But at the same time, the newlyweds should marry exactly at the time when the orange blossom blooms, that is, from April to May. The flower bears the scientific name Citrus aurantium amara, which in Latin means "bitter orange". The tree came to the Mediterranean from southern China during the heyday of the Roman Empire. Orange Blossom essential oil is obtained by distilling flowers. It is noteworthy that the absolute orange blossom oil is called neroli. This name was given to the oil in honor of the Duchess Orcini de neroli, who was famous for her love of the smell of oil. Neroli has a fresh and clean scent invaded by minor animals and warm aromatic blotches. The product is actively used in many colognes. The water that remains from the processing of orange blossoms is orange blossom water, which is widely used in perfumery. Sometimes, absolute orange blossom oil is obtained by solvent extraction. It should be noted that the oil yield is very small. One kilogram of neroli takes more than a ton of orange flowers. The branches and leaves of the bitter orange are also carefully processed to produce an essential oil called petitgrain oil. If orange peel is processed, the result is bigarade oil.

Lavender

Lavender is a flower that has always been associated with the wonderful region of Provence. The lavender scent is associated with cleanliness, which is why it is actively used in the manufacture of laundry products. But in perfumery, lavender has not been particularly honored lately, since it is believed that it has long gone out of fashion. At the same time, lavender is a flower that has the widest range of scents. Therefore, it is premature to say that lavender has outlived itself. It is also worth noting that the Manosca plateau and the Luberon hills bloom in August not with lavender itself, but with a hybrid of this flower called lavender. As for real lavender, it grows in more southern regions. In perfumery, this extremely expensive component is used exclusively in the initial notes, and flowers with a thin stem are taken as a basis. Lavender grows not only in the Alps, but also in the UK.

Perfumery history knows two examples when the lavender note was used by the British to create masterpiece compositions. Both of these perfumes were created at the beginning of the last century. The first fragrance is English Iavender by Atkinson, which was released in 1910. This is the first men's eau de toilette in the world. The second scent is Old English Lavender by Yardley, which was released in 1913. This scent was considered a necessary addition to English tweeds. These compositions were replaced in 1934 by Karon's Pour un home fragrance. Unfortunately, the lavender scent has become so accustomed to associations with freshly washed laundry that hardly any perfumer will dare to release a perfume composition with a characteristic scent. However, some masculine fragrances can still contain lavender notes that make the compositions look fresher.

Ylang Ylang

The plant, which has a long name Cananga odorata forma genuine, is called in the perfumery world by the simple and memorable name "ylang-ylang". It grows in humid tropical heat and does not recognize other conditions. The plant was first discovered in the Philippines, after which it was transported to Madagascar and the Camor Islands, where the main ylang-ylang plantations are located, supplying flowers for famous perfume brands. It is worth noting that ylang-ylang is a tree that can reach 30 meters in height. Flowers used in perfumery grow on its uneven branches. However, the industrial type of ylang-ylang is pruned to 1.8 meters for ease of collection, as a result of which its branches become more curved.

Ylang-ylang, which the Filipinos call "the flower of flowers," is recognized as the flower of seduction and pleasure. Manila women often adorn their hair with ylang-ylang, which is why the scent of this wonderful flower always reigns in the harem. Perfumers all over the world use this scent, which tends to quickly open and become more powdery.

Roots and rhizomes.

Perfumers are often faced with the problem of inability to extract certain plants and flowers. But if the smell of a particular plant is still needed, the extraction is carried out not with flowers or stems, but with the roots of the plant, from which an excellent perfumery essential oil is obtained. This oil can be used in all kinds of combinations.

Iris

Today, more than three hundred varieties of iris are known, but only two of them are used in perfumery. These are Iris pallida and Iris florentina. Flowers are grown in Florence and Morocco. It is noteworthy that flowers are not suitable for obtaining iris essential oil. Only rhizomes are processed. As a result, the smell of iris essential oil differs from that of the flower itself. After processing, the iris oil smells like a violet. Iris essential oil is very expensive because it takes three years to grow the flower itself and then dry it for three years to get a fuller scent. Iris roots are processed by distillation. One ton of iris as a result forms only 2 kilograms of essential oil, which has a very strong, delicate, pronounced aroma. In a perfume, iris oil adds a woody and floral note, making the fragrance more persistent.

Vetiver

Vetiver is a plant that was introduced to Reunion Island in 1850. For over 150 years, Bourbon vetiver, with the botanical name Andropogonsquarrosus, has been considered one of the noblest plants in perfumery. The Indians call vetiver by the mysterious name KusKus. This cereal plant is currently grown not only on Reunion Island, but also in Indonesia, India and Haiti. After distillation, the roots of vetiver release an essential oil that is used to obtain vetiveryl acetate and to produce high-quality perfume compositions.

Leaves, herbs and stems.

Geranium

There are more than 250 varieties of geraniums in the world, but the unforgiving perfumery, as usual, chose from them only three main varieties, which are grown on the famous Reunion Island, as well as on the banks of the Egyptian Nile. Geranium leaves produce a wonderful essential oil, which is isolated by steam distillation. As a result of the use of geranium essential oil, the composition acquires a pronounced pleasant floral shade. The main feature of geranium oil is that it contains chemical compounds similar to those of rose essential oil. Because of this, in perfume compositions in which geranium oil was used, individual pink notes can sometimes be distinguished.

Patchouli

In the 70s of the last century, representatives of the hippie youth movement worshiped the unsurpassed perfume "Flower Power", the magic of which was explained by the presence of patchouli essential oil in the perfume. Note that this oil is obtained from dry leaves growing in Indonesia, bearing the biological name Pogostemoncablin. Patchouli has an unusually long-lasting woody, earthy and camphor aroma that is highly regarded in modern perfumery.

Violet

Despite the beauty of the violet flower, only Viola odorata leaves are used in perfumery, which undergo a solvent extraction procedure. The result is an essential oil with a strong green note and a persistent flower scent. It should be noted that the violet was actively used during the formation of the perfumery industry. What are the fragrances VeraVioletta from Roger and Galle and Violettepourpre from Ubigan, released at the turn of the 18-19 centuries. Today, violet essential oil is used only as a fixative for other perfume elements.

Myrtle

The branches of the Myrtus communis plant are great for producing a wonderful essential oil that is used to make perfume. It is enough to add just one drop of myrtle oil to make the aroma sound like all myrtle colors. Myrtle is a Mediterranean tree that the ancient Greeks dedicated to the goddess Venus. Until now, myrtle is considered a symbol of love and happiness. The fruits and branches of myrtle were added to wine even during the Roman Empire, as a result of which the wine was aromatic. In addition, myrtle is still used to flavor baths.

There are many more different plants used in perfumery. Among them, one can distinguish the herbaceous smell of essential oil of wormwood, oil of French and exotic basil, tarragon, cypress, eucalyptus, marjoram, laurel, dill, a small South American mate tree, mint, pine, parsley, oregano, medicinal and clary sage, verbena, thyme and tobacco.

Branches, bark, mosses and lichens.

Used for a long time in fumigation, these products play an important role in modern perfumery when used in compositions with woody and chypre scent.

Cinnamon

Cinnamon has gained popularity since the 16th century. This spice has been used in everything from pastries to famous warm wines. In perfumery, cinnamon essential oil is actively used, for the production of which the Ceylon cinnamon tree Cinnamomum ceylanicum is used. This type of cinnamon tree grows in the Seychelles, Malaysia and the island of Ceylon. Cinnamon essential oil has a warm, long-lasting aroma that goes well with other components of oriental perfume compositions.

Sandalwood

Sandalwood essential oil has been known since Antiquity. It is highly valued not only in India, where sandalwood grows, but throughout the planet. This is due to the fact that sandalwood is often used in the creation of aromatic compositions by many perfume companies. The list of sandalwood perfumes is quite large: Amazone, Guerlain, Paco Rabanne, Metal, Geeky, Hermes, etc. To create the essential oil, not only the bark of the sandalwood, but also its roots are subjected to steam distillation. The result is a soft and warm oil whose scent can only be admired. Especially in the perfumery industry, essential oil is valued, which is obtained in the Indian city of Karnataka. Today, sandalwood trees are under state protection, as a result of which they are not officially cultivated.

Oak moss

The well-known oak moss, which can be found in temperate regions, is harvested in late winter and early spring. In addition to the Everniaprunastri variety, the Evernia Purfurcea tree moss is also harvested. The solvent extraction method allows the extraction of absolute essential oils from moss, which have an extravagant scent of greenery and cipher. Oakmoss essential oil is used to create perfumes such as Kouros and Molino by Yves Saint Laurent, Quartz and Miss Dior by Christian Dior.

As for the rest of the raw wood, it is especially worth highlighting the rosewood. Rosewood essential oil is obtained by distilling wood. The tree itself grows in Guyana, Peru and Brazil. Rosewood essential oil is very important for compositions with a characteristic leathery scent. In woody compositions, you can sometimes notice the use of cedar oil, thuja oil and birch oil. By the way, birch essential oil is valued no less than rosewood oil, which is explained by the characteristic smell of leather.

Resins and balms.

Many people are not familiar with this group of elements, but perfumers often use them in aromatic compositions, appreciating their extraordinary properties. Resins, balms, gum-resins and gums are natural secretions of a certain group of plants, which can also form due to any damage. These products can vary in solubility. The resins additionally have exquisite odorous properties.

Siamese benzoin gum

Siamese benzoic gum is obtained by cutting the trunk of a short Styraxtonkinensis tree that grows in Vietnam and Laos. The resin can be extracted with solvents to form a product called a resinoid. This element is used by perfumers who want to round up the scent.

Labdanum

Labdanum is a gum-gum that is secreted from the leaves of Cistus Iadaniferus, that is, cistus (a shrub that grows in the Mediterranean basin). Labdanum absolute oil is often used in amber fragrances and chypre perfumes.

Incense

Incense, which has the botanical name Boswellia carterii, is a wild shrub that grows in Somalia and the southern Arabian Peninsula. Frankincense essential oil is obtained by distillation. Usually perfumers use it in the initial notes of a perfume composition, which, under the influence of incense, acquire a pleasant spicy hue. Extraction also produces a resinoid which has a significantly heavier aroma. It is used to create woody and oriental compositions, adding as a base note.

Galbanum

Galbanum is a gum-gum produced by cutting the trunk of the herb Ferula galbaniflua, which grows in Iranian territory. After the resin is treated with solvents or steam, an essential oil with a characteristic green scent is formed. Galbanum essential oil is perfect for such fragrances as Fidji by Guy Laroche and Vent Vert by Balmain.

Myrrh

Myrrh has been known since biblical times. It was the essential oil of myrrh that was brought to the newborn savior by one of the Magi. Myrrh is a resin that is naturally secreted from the branches of the Commiphora myrrha shrub. A fragrant essential oil is obtained from the resin, which is converted into a resinoid by subsequent processing. The aroma of myrrh essential oil is reminiscent of a thicket. Myrrh oil is used in perfumery to scent fern and chypre combinations.

Opoponax resin

The huge tree Elemi Manila, which grows in the Philippines, produces a gum-resin called elemi or opoponax. The essential oil of opoponax, as well as the resinoid, smells like myrrh. Opoponax is actively used in perfumes such as Shalimar, Guerlain.

In addition, it is necessary to remember about Tolu balsam, which is extracted from Venezuelan and Bolivian trees. The sweet tinge of tolu balsam is often used in oriental fragrances. It is worth noting that the aromatic properties of resins such as opoponax, galbanum, frankincense and myrrh were already known to the ancient Egyptians, who used them in incense.

Fruit and zest.

Fruit is quite difficult to use in perfumery. This is because there is too much water in the fruit, so the aroma is not strong enough for use. In the perfumery industry, only citrus fruits are used, which are pre-dried. In addition, citrus peel or peel, which contains essential oils, is of particular value. Citrus fruits used by perfumers include oranges, tangerines, grapefruits and lemons. Citrus aromas are characteristic of refreshing waters and colognes.

Lemon

Lemon essential oil is produced by pressing the zest of Citruslimon fruits. This lemon is grown in Ivory Coast, South America, Florida and Italy. Lemon essential oil is characteristic of the initial notes of perfumery compositions, since it can be used to achieve the necessary freshness.

Orange

To create orange essential oil, use the zest of the sweet orange and the fruit of the bitter orange. It is these components that are capable of giving an oil that has sufficient durability and odor brightness. The effect of orange essential oil is used in colognes and refreshing waters along with lemon.

Mandarin

The homeland of the mandarin is China. This citrus fruit was especially revered by the local rulers, who were called "mandarin". In perfumery, only one type of mandarin is used - Citrus reticulate. Mandarin essential oil is formed by squeezing citrus peels.

Grapefruit

To create grapefruit essential oil, Citrus paradisi fruit is used, which grows in the United States and Israel. In perfumery, grapefruit has been used relatively recently, but when creating citrus perfume compositions, you simply cannot do without it.

In addition to the above fruits, citrus bergamot essential oil can be noted, which is extracted from Citrus bergamia. However, the aroma of this oil quickly evaporates, so that it is used only for general aroma lift. In the 18-19th centuries, zedrate made from Citrus medica fruits was actively used. In addition, do not forget about green lemon (limette), the essential oil of which is often used to create sports scents and men's eau de toilette. And also, limet is used in Coca-Cola.

Anise and star anise

Anise essential oil is produced by steam distillation of small dried fruits of the herb Pimpinella anisum, which grows in European territory. Star anise is called star anise. Its essential oil is different from regular anise oil, although it is made in a similar way. For distillation, the fruits of the giant Illicium verum tree, which are shaped like a star, are used. Badian grows in the southern regions of China, as well as in Vietnam. The essential oils of star anise and anise are commonly used in refreshing perfume compositions.

Nutmeg

The nutmeg, which is known as Myristica fragrans, is native to the evergreen nutmeg tree. Freshly picked nutmeg is similar in size to an apricot. The nutmeg rind has a fibrous, reddish texture. If we talk about the taste of the nut itself, then it has a bitter, tart taste, as a result of which it is practically not eaten. But for perfumery, nutmeg is just perfect. The spicy scent of nutmeg essential oil is perfect for modern colognes and men's fragrances.

Vanilla

Vanilla was first discovered in Mexico. In the 18th century, sailors brought it to the Camor Islands, Madagascar, Reunion and other regions of the Indian Ocean. Vanilla is a climbing plant called Vanilla planifolia, which belongs to the orchid family. Vanilla flowers have a yellowish or white-greenish tint, the pods are slightly flattened. There are seeds inside the pods. The inner walls of the pods are covered with small hairs, which secrete a viscous yellow substance with a sweetish and warm balsamic smell. Vanilla essential oil is characterized by fixing properties and strong scent. Vanilla is used in many perfume compositions. Especially often it can be seen in the perfumes of the Guerlain house.

Do not forget about such perfumery elements as carnation buds, which do not belong to the same color. Clove buds are the stalks of the clove tree native to Zanzibar, Malaysia and Madagascar. The essential oil of clove bud, which has a herbaceous and spicy scent, is delicately combined with rose oil to form the clove scent often used in modern perfumery. Also, the perfume industry uses juniper berries, which smell like gin. Juniper berry essential oil has a forest, fruity, piney smell. After distillation, the berries of sowing nigella form a balsamic and spicy essential oil that can be used in small doses for oriental and floral perfume compositions.

Seeds and grains

Cardamom

The seeds of the Elettaria cardamonum plant, which is native to Central America, Indonesia, India, and Ceylon, are used to create cardamom essential oil that has an airy, fruity scent. Cardamom is used to lift perfume compositions.

Coriander

Coriander or Coriandrum sativum is an herb that is grown in North Africa, Hungary and Ukraine. The essential oil of coriander is isolated by steam distillation. Coriander oil has a pronounced spicy aroma, with a slight chocolate shade.

Kumin

Cuminumcyminum is an Indian and Mediterranean herb that is important to the perfume industry for its dried seeds. To obtain cumin essential oil, a steam distillation method is used. Cumin essential oil is used in woody and fern combinations in small amounts, as it has a very strong aniseed, spicy, herbaceous aroma.

Hay fenugreek

Hay fenugreek is a herb that grows in Asia Minor and India. This herb has played a fundamental role in Islamic and antique perfumery. By means of extraction, a resinoid is extracted from its seeds, the smell of which is similar to that of celery and walnut. Today, hay fenugreek is rarely used.

Tonka beans

In the fruits of the huge tree Dipterix odorata, which grows in Brazil and Guiana, aromatic seeds are found, which, through extraction, release the essential oil of the tonka bean. This oil is actively used as the main note of oriental, tobacco, amber perfumes.

Pepper

We are not talking about ordinary culinary peppers, but about the fruit of the climbing bush Pipernigrum, which has reddish berries suitable for use in the perfume industry. After picking, the berries gradually begin to brown, which is a signal that they must be processed to obtain pepper essential oil. This oil is very often found in men's perfumes.

Photo by Betsy van der Meer for The New Yorker, September 2015.

Let's just imagine that a man suddenly receives a bouquet of flowers. For a good reason or just like that, it doesn't matter. Tell me what is so terrible here? The man overcame, at best, a slight awkwardness and that's it! And if you do this regularly, then there will be no trace of his embarrassment. After all, flowers in your hands are a sign of attention, not your gender. For the first time I received a bouquet for one of my birthdays. There were sunflowers, a shepherd's purse, twigs of mastic, and all these flowers, despite the juicy greens and bright colors, were so beautiful and brutal that the thought “Oh! Flowers? To me?" looked more ridiculous than logical. And then there was another bouquet a year later - seven giant and thorny cream roses. He was not at all brutal, like the first one, which did not prevent me from hugging him to me and that I had the strength to close my eyes - either from happiness, or from thorns digging into my skin. Between the two bouquets there were many more different flowers - irises, tulips, tiger lilies, roses, chrysanthemums, asters, wildflowers without a name, daisies - I bought them myself, carefully wrapped them in craft and happily rushed home.

Actor Jake Gyllenhaal in a shoot for Du Jour magazine, winter 2016.

In perfumery, the situation is the same as with fresh flowers. On the one hand, "what's wrong with that?", And on the other, "well, won't I smell like a rose?" And even if it does, what's wrong with that? Now a guy, in order to smell like flowers, needs a little more self-confidence, and in Ancient Egypt it was not even possible to smell differently. Once fragrant tuberose has become almost the main decoration of the winter gardens in Versailles. The essence of her white flowers was the iconic scent of unwashed bodies and love letters of the time. The sun king Louis XIV asked to rinse his snow-white shirts only in Aqua Angeli, a liquid akin to today's fabric softener, with a persistent smell of oud, nutmeg, cloves, styrax, benzoin, rose water, jasmine, orange blossom and musk. The rose was an obligatory part of the bacchanalia, which was arranged by the Roman emperor Nero. And finally, Napoleon's habit of literally bathing in the essence of orange blossom before every fight. Let's omit their victories or defeats, the point here is absolutely different - the smell of flowers never and nowhere gave them a doubt about their own manhood.

Henryk Semiradsky “Lights of Christianity. Torches of Nero ", 1876.

Perfume blogger Denis Beaulieu explains: “Global changes happened in the 19th century against the backdrop of the rise of the bourgeoisie. It was then that the idea that men could not wear floral notes appeared, and then actively spread. Men began to maintain hygiene, wear black suits and completely abandoned the coquetry of outfits of the past era. " It's funny that since then a man in the West is naturally ashamed of everything that is not a wine glass, but an oriental man, on the contrary, would rather prefer a rose than a tree, if it is, of course, not oud.

Pierre Auguste Renoir, The Artist's Studio, Rue Saint-Georges, 1876.

Portrait of the Sultan of the Ottoman Empire Mehmet II, sniffing a rose, 15th century.

The owner of the Twisted Lily perfume store, Eric Weiser in Brooklyn, shrugs his shoulders: “Actually, flowers are always present in commercial men's fragrances, they just are so“ gloved ”and“ salted ”with other ingredients that they can't even utter a word. 95% of our store's assortment is unisex if you like, but we have noticed an unprecedented surge in the popularity of jasmine among men. Flowers grow from the muddy ground, does that make them so feminine? "

Rose Noir, Byredo

Left: Instagram photo @tipmegold. Right: Floral-woody-musky scent Rose Noir, Byredo with grapefruit, white freesia, damask rose, labdanum, oakmoss and musk.

It was my first floral scent that I bought myself - deliberately and without a doubt. It happened at the Lieblings concept store in the tiny German city of Fulda, where I was constantly traveling from Moscow on love affairs. Four months later, love ended, as did the contents of the bottle, and if the absence of the first one could somehow be reconciled, then higher powers came to the rescue with the second - the Byredo brand descended on Moscow with all its belongings. Its creator Ben Gorham - Swedish and Indian in half, completely covered in tattoos, a two-meter long hair with long hair in velvet slippers with tassels and a gown made of thick silk - told me all the details. “Of course, creating a rose especially for men was the last thing I could think of. It suits absolutely everyone, and its peculiarity is that this rose blossomed in the era of decadence. All works of that time had an attitude towards shocking, for the sake of which writers, artists and other artists deliberately used paradox, symbolism, eroticism, the cult of sensual pleasures and mysticism. Rose fragrances are always fancy and ephemeral, but in this case, thanks to the musk and woody-mossy notes, the rose is rough, tangible and a little cheeky. Maybe because femininity is the last thing that comes to mind in the case of this rose, it reveals itself so harmoniously on male skin? "

Flores Negras, Fueguia 1883

Left: Floral-fruity fragrance Flores Negras, Fueguia 1883 with notes of frangipani and dates. Right: Instagram photo @mariannekrauss.

Now stones will be thrown at me or whatever else is thrown at dissidents, but I could never love anything in the Fueguia 1883 brand. At some point, it rolled head over heels into all the perfume markets from distant Argentina, walked through them far and wide and at the same time drove crazy those who fell under her hot hand. I personally know the person who made all this creative mess, I honestly listened to all the fragrances until my poor sense of smell finally atrophied, I even went on vacation to Buenos Aires and first of all went to the main boutique of the brand, which looked more like backstage of the old theater, but it was all in vain. I absolutely love all these stories from tango to Patagonia, alcohol that is driven from maize, bottles of recycled glass, inscriptions with soy ink, boxes from naturally fallen trees in the Valdiviano forest, but at the same time not a single content thought out inside and out, me does not force you to move on limp legs.

Egoiste, Chanel

Left: woody-floral scent of Egoiste, Chanel, with notes of mahogany bark, Sicilian mandarin, rosewood, coriander, cloves, damask rose, leather, sandalwood, vanilla and tobacco. Right: Instagram photo @electricdaisyflowerfarm.

In the case of this venerable fragrance, it is not for me that I need to run away from you, that flowers are in the order of things for men, he himself so impudently stated in 1990, when perfumer Jacques Polge threw this creation out onto an unprepared audience. That only cost some advertising campaigns and films in support of it. And the composition, built around a rose, blazing geraniums and marigolds, still manages to sound modern, fresh and non-trivial. And to reproach this man for the love of flowers ...? Well, try ...

Rose Amazone, Hermès

Left: Instagram photo @zoozel. Right: the green-floral-fruity scent of Rose Amazone, Hermès with notes of citrus, red currant, black currant leaves and buds, raspberries, blackberries, rose, amber, vanilla and wood.

With him we have a mandatory and non-negotiable rendezvous at duty free at every airport. In recent years, I have been making almost all flights in his company, which is comfortable for me and those around me. Imagine my undisguised surprise when I discovered that all Internet sites, without exception, in unison call him a woman's fragrance. Perhaps, as they shortsightedly believe, the matter is in the enchanting rose. Or even worse, in currants and blackberries, which a serious man would never dare to inflict on himself. I will allow myself to disagree for the thousandth time and shower myself with rose water as if I were not going to fly, but to the bacchanalia to Nero. I do not argue, a rose can always appear as a mannered girl, indecently sticking out its sweet and powdery side, but it can also go into waste-free production, when not only tight buds with dew, but also hard stems, predatory thorns, prickly receptacles and beautiful withering petals. In this case, the aroma also turns out to be sweet and fresh, but its cutesiness suffers a complete fiasco, when from nowhere greens, bitterness and spices suddenly spill out.

Seminalis, Orto Parisi

Left: Seminalis, Orto Parisi, a floral gourmet fragrance. Right: Instagram photo @mr_ernrstodamico.

When the Orto Parisi collection was first presented to the public, it was a scandal. A vague and obviously something non-communicating concept, Latin in names, pictures with an indecent meaning, smells that you don't expect at all in fragrances, a complete absence of notes in the description. Everything more or less fell into place when the founder and perfumer Alessandro Gualtieri frankly admitted that he compares a person here with a fictional garden, transmitting all the impressions received through amazing and unique body odors - in places so natural that to admit out loud even to himself, “what it smells now, "a little awkward. The latest fragrance of the Seminalis collection is the most decent of all, which, however, does not prevent it from supporting the physiological concept chosen by the author. If you make an effort on yourself and imagine something decent, then a ripe dandelion could smell like this when you blow on its fluffy ball and its parachutes are dancing in the air. By tradition, the perfumer keeps the pyramid of notes in the strictest confidence, but many of my colleagues hear an obvious gardenia here. The same flower that men in the 19th century wore in the buttonholes of their jackets, but never dreamed of wearing it as a scent.

Soleil Blanc, Tom Ford

Left: Instagram photo @ blondie_bouelle Right: Oriental floral fragrance Soleil Blanc, Tom Ford with notes of white flowers, pink pepper, pistachios, amber, tonka bean, benzoin and coconut.

The best trio of classic perfumery for women - jasmine, tuberose, ylang-ylang - have been noted together and separately in all the cult fragrances throughout their history from Dior and Chanel to Guerlain and Jean Patou. Tom Ford, in his characteristic manner and our attitude towards him, from love to hate, has made the obvious and incredible - a fragrance where the most indecently feminine notes tease adult men, like little children. And they are teased not on the female skin, located in intimate proximity to them, but on their own. How he did it, I don't know, but the number of fans of this fragrance among the male audience is frighteningly off scale.

Sunshine Men, Amouage

Left: Instagram photo @ robin_n.h_. Right: aromatic aroma of Sunshine Men, Amouage with notes of brandy, orange, lavender, immortelle, juniper berries, sage, vanilla and cedar.

A frivolous scent of irrevocably drying lavender and immortelle flowers that a dandy wearing a stretched alcoholic T-shirt under an expensive flannel jacket can afford, or a swirling God reflecting on a new tattoo while walking and chewing on a toothpick. Unusual and scandalous in all respects, a fougere, from a complete disregard for the brand's east-oriented policy and ending with daring perfume additives in the form of brandy and tonka beans.

Twist No1 Chamomile, Clive Christian

Left: Floral-oriental fragrance Twist No1 Chamomile, Clive Christian with notes of chamomile, lime, nutmeg, red pepper, ylang-ylang, rose, jasmine, sandalwood, cedar and vanilla. Right: Brad Pitt with daisies.

Any flower that Sir Clive Christian and his daughter Victoria would not take on, comes out in advance from them as an aristocrat with an unblemished reputation, which men are not only forbidden to wear, but highly recommended. The last and not the most obvious flower in perfumery, to which the family turned their close attention, is the modest chamomile that covers the swampy countryside of East Anglia. Due to its subtle "pharmacy" scent, the flower fits into the oriental recipe of exotic plants, spices, refreshing citrus fruits and burning through and through pimento.

Paestum Rose, Eau d'Italie

Left: photo from the Comme des Garcons FW 2016 show. Right: floral-woody-musky scent of Paestum Rose, Eau d'Italie with notes of wormwood, Turkish rose, several types of pepper, incense, osmanthus, myrrh, opoponax and papyrus.

Today, the ancient Italian city of Paestum lies in ruins and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Apart from architectural treasures, the city was famous for its special variety of roses. They bloomed wildly twice a year, exuded a magical aroma, and were also supplied to the temple of Aphrodite and personally to the emperor Nero, whose servants showered guests with petals during lavish feasts. The beauty of Paestum roses was sung by Ovid, Virgil and Goethe - they will have to take their word for it, since this type of roses has irrevocably disappeared. In Paestum, for the most part, simple and hard-working men lived, and scientists are tossing to this day, trying to find an explanation for how all this subtle beauty could be erected by their calloused hands and meager mind. Perhaps it's all about roses, the scent of which was constantly heard by the locals and which the perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour tried to recreate - he was also a master of starting a time machine. The result is a very masculine rose - dark, but without unnecessary gothic; shocking, but moderately tactful; mysterious and fragile, as if descended in 3D with the miraculous surviving engravings and frescoes.

Marfa, Memo

Left: floral-woody-musky scent Marfa, Memo with notes of orange blossom, mandarin oil, tuberose, agave, ylang ylang, sandalwood and musk. Right: Instagram photo @marshall_morasoon.

Everything in this fragrance is striking: firstly, tuberose, which has relations with men like the devil with incense; secondly, I am far from an exemplary man and I love flowers very much, but with tuberose we cannot stand each other. I am drenched in this aroma from head to toe and cannot understand how this is possible at all. Clara Malaya (founder of Memo) brought clarity when we finally met her in the Parisian boutique of the brand. “The source of inspiration for us was the unusual city of Martha, which my husband and I visited during our American trip by car. Life came to this remote and dreary at first glance desert in the state of Texas in the 1970s. Martha became the promised land for talented artists, filmmakers and performers. Among the barren desert, art objects made of concrete, metal, neon, plastic and aluminum have grown like flowers.

The scent is based on the absolute of tuberose flowers. But tuberose is not what everyone is accustomed to - oily, juicy, suffocating, blowing away. With the help of accompanying notes, we achieved a herbarium effect and got rid of excessive odor. Feeling as if the tuberose flower had dried up under the influence of the sand and the heat of the desert, but remained strong and still fragrant. "

Flowers are amazingly beautiful creations of nature. Due to their magical aroma, perfumers actively add their essential oils when creating a perfume.

Already in ancient times, people, making perfumes, used spices, needles, herbs and, of course, flowers. It is even believed that without flowers, the perfume industry would not have achieved such a successful development. Today we will focus on the most important colors - favorites in the perfumery industry.

the Rose

No wonder it is believed that the rose is the queen of flowers: delicate petals, a bright feminine scent. Many legends are associated with this flower. For example, it is believed that the god of wine Dionysus gave her a fragrance, and the goddess of beauty Aphrodite - a luxurious appearance.

Despite the wide variety of varieties, Rosa Damascene and Rosa Centifolia are mainly used in perfumes. Recently, the black rose - Black Baccara - has become popular among perfumers. It gives the perfume a special aroma - tart, woody, with hints of tobacco.

Roses are grown in Turkey, Morocco, and the main supplier of roses is Bulgaria. In this country, it is considered a national pride - the flower has been grown there since the 12th century. In addition, it was in Bulgaria that rose oil was first created - just this is used to create a fragrance. Rose oil is considered very valuable - in the international market, its value is higher than precious metals.

Lavender

Bright, cold, refreshing, the smell of purity - this is how you can describe the unusual scent of lavender. Recently, it is believed that lavender is only suitable for flavoring laundry detergents, but this is not the case. Perfumers add it to men's or unisex compositions that suit strong, strong-willed people.

This flower was held in high esteem even in Ancient Egypt: lavender was used to prepare mixtures for embalming the deceased pharaohs. The first perfume with lavender appeared in the Renaissance: the composition included a tincture of rosemary, lemon, orange, which perfectly complemented the bright scent of the flower.

The largest lavender plantations are found in Provence, the French region. It is also grown in many European countries - England, Spain, as well as in the Caribbean and India.

Jasmine

Jasmine, a symbol of love and passion, blooms only in summer, and its flowers are most vividly fragrant at night. That is why the buds are collected before dawn and only by hand, otherwise the petals are easily damaged. The cost of jasmine essential oil is very high, as it takes 8,000 buds to create 1 kilogram of oil. The main jasmine plantations are located in France, Morocco, India.

In addition to perfumery, jasmine is used in food. For example, tea with jasmine petals is popular all over the world, which is not only fragrant, but also healthy. This tea has wound healing, anti-inflammatory, tonic properties.

Ylang-Ylang

Ylang-ylang, or kananga tree flower, is a real tropical beauty. It grows only in hot tropical conditions. The fragrant yellow flowers were first discovered in the Philippines, and then transported to the Comoros. This is where the plantations are located, supplying flowers for perfume houses.

Filipinos consider ylang-ylang to be the flower of seduction: women decorate their hair with it, and its scent always reigns in homes. Perfumers appreciate the flower for its alluring, sweetish, powdery scent. The buds, as in the case of jasmine, are harvested at dawn.

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